[How do I?] Drum Switch Wiring Done, Help Switching Dual Voltage Motor To 115v (1 Phase)

[MasaAMD]

I see, that makes a lot more sense now. I think I have been using the wrong terminology, and I think you are right that the red and black are the start leg. When the motor is not running the centrifugal switch should be closed so I should be able to measure the resistance though that whole leg.

Thank you for all your help btw I really appreciate it!

 

[markba633csi]

Yes exacta mundo. You should be able to measure a low resistance thru the start leg.
Here's a diagram which shows the idea: I don't know if any of the colors/numbers match your motor- looks like the red and black do..Centrifugal is misspelled- not me

 

[markba633csi]

So the problem is twofold here: we need to verify that your windings are OK and then secondly, we need to arrange the drum switch to handle reversing the start leg and open L1 or L2 when in the "Off" position. Did you say the motor works fine in both directions with proper torque when wired by itself? If one of the two run windings was not connected, you might get the low torque problem you described.
Mark S.
Correction: your ohmmeter would show a "twitch" when measuring the start leg because of the action of the capacitor. Initially a low reading which then climbs towards infinity. If everything is good.

 

[MasaAMD]

Alright everything's apart time to measure the resistance.


From left to right: Black, Orange, Blue, Yellow, Red, White

Wires on the right are from the switch.

 

[MasaAMD]

So the problem is twofold here: we need to verify that your windings are OK and then secondly, we need to arrange the drum switch to handle reversing the start leg and open L1 or L2 when in the "Off" position. Did you say the motor works fine in both directions with proper torque when wired by itself? If one of the two run windings was not connected, you might get the low torque problem you described.
Mark S.

When I was testing the motor originally I did not change any of its wiring, only the wiring from the switch to the motor. I was able to get it to run in both directions, but it did have very low torque. I can't say for sure that it was wired correctly from the get go, and I am willing to assume it wasn't since everything else wasn't either.

 

[markba633csi]

OK so we are starting from ground zero here. You should put the motor back like the plate and test it without the drum switch, make sure the motor is good.
MS

 

[MasaAMD]

We have success! The drawing you posted matches the motor exactly. I wired it up as per the diagram and I have full torque in both directions and I can hear the centrifugal switch kick off on start and back on when the the motor winds down. Also the motor stays nice and cool to luke-warm when running under different pulley load.

 

[MasaAMD]

Correction: your ohmmeter would show a "twitch" when measuring the start leg because of the action of the capacitor. Initially a low reading which then climbs towards infinity. If everything is good.

That is exactly what I saw on the meter. All windings measure OK when using the diagram for the correct terminal ends.

 

[markba633csi]

Excellent, so the motor is good. I still don't quite follow the diagram on the motor cover plate though. It looks like one run winding is blue/white and the other is orange/yellow. But why they leave 5 unhooked for 110 I don't follow. There may be a thermal protector in there, which they don't use for 110v. I think we just went through this before with a Baldor motor for another member. But anyhow, we just have to deal with the drum switch and you're golden. Subsequently...zzz
Mark S.

 

[MasaAMD]

Yeah I completely agree with you on the plate, more confusing than it needs to be. The drawing you posted matches the motor perfectly though and I will be using it as reference from here on out.

I just tested the switch with the black (hot) from the outlet to L1 and the neutral (white) directly connected to L2. Switches on and off perfectly.