DRO or not?

[Bamban]

This 3 inch Starrett dial indicator got me through a lot of barrels


And this on the 1236, pointer on the QCTP I can dial to the resolution of the indicator. The trick to make sure there are no errors due to the indicator not squared up, make some small cuts and measure to ensure what you dial is what you got. Once the calibration sort of is verified then you can go on with the rest of the turning job. Done countless barrel for the gas blocks and hit dimensions spot on with this set up

 

[BtoVin83]

With all the hub bub about DRO's I took a look at them and the cost benefit ratio is just not there, When start building interplanetary vehicles or nuclear reactors maybe I will revisit this.

 

[macardoso]

I've been using lathes for years without any DRO and I trust myself to make accurate parts. I ended up purchasing one recently because I'm having issues with the rack and pinion on my lathe and I would like a readout to double check my work. I got it for under $250 shipped so it was worthwhile to me. Has some useful "bonus" features.

I think that learning to use your machine without a DRO is valuable. There are lessons such as dealing with backlash that you should figure out without the screen running.

I'd also be concerned that it would be very difficult to install a DRO on a small lathe. The scales have a relatively large cross section (3/4" x 1" or more) and are almost 2 inches longer than the axis travel. You might not be able to fit these on a small lathe, especially the cross slide.

In short, a DRO isn't needed for accurate work but can make life easier and running the machine faster. Learn to use it without the DRO first.

EDIT: Spelling Edit

 

[BGHansen]

Not adding anything here, but having a DRO speeds up most operations. I'd really hate to lose the DROs from my mills. I have 4 mills and 3 have DROs. So nice to not have to count hand wheel turns or worry about back lash. I'm so much more productive with the DRO.

I have two lathes, one has a DRO. I use the DRO quite a bit, especially for Z-axis work. Nice to zero a tool on the end of the work and turn a shoulder to the proper length. I get by on the other lathe with a 2" travel dial indicator on a magnetic base. Not essential on a lathe, but very nice for a lot of the work that I do.

Bruce

 

[Inferno]

I'll add that a DRO isn't "essential" but my experience is that I won't use my lathe/mill without one ever again.
I only made two things before I added a DRO. After the DRO I started making a lot more things.

I learned on dial machines. I can't tell you how many times I wrote down a stop point or did some math or whatever when I was in school. The DRO makes it so much easier. I just set a zero point and move my tool. Then I can go back to zero and add more or however I want the math to work.
Having a lot of things in either metric or inches makes it a lot easier also. No more math there either. Just push a button and I'm switched. Easy-peasy.

I'll add that you don't need to spend a ton of money on a DRO. I added mine for, I am pretty sure, less than $200. It's bluetooth so the readout goes to my tablet or phone or whatever. I had to solder the receiver board myself but I like doing that sort of thing. I think the board can be bought already soldered if you aren't into that sort of thing.

The readout I have set up is only X and Y right now, plus lathe head RPM. Someday, when I need to, I will set up the Z for the mill feature. right now it's not too much of an issue.

I vote you get a DRO. You will never look back.

 

[Shootymacshootface]

I agree with most of the great comments here. For a mill, a DRO is a no brainer. For a lathe, it is another story. I put a lot of thought into putting a DRO on my lathe and my conclusions are that it would be somewhat useful for the Z axis, very useful for the tailstock, and not that great for the X axis. The X axis settings on a lathe are too intuitive for a DRO to be indispensable like it is on a mill.
Just my opinion.
Maybe someday I will put one on my lathe, but definitely not a priority.

 

[JimDawson]

I put a DRO on my lathe a couple years ago, it's nice to have, but definitely not essential. If I need to hold really tight tolerances, I still do it the old fashioned way. It is nice for the Z travel when you're laying out a part with several different diameters.

 

[MrWhoopee]

Essential? NO, have never had one on a lathe and never felt the need for one. A mill is another matter ---

Interesting, I feel the opposite. Unless the lathe has some other means of determining carriage travel, I would consider a DRO more valuable there. Having cut my teeth before DROs were common, there are ways to accomplish what you need without them. Much like learning to grind cutting tools, there is a case to be made for learning to do precision work without one.

 

[Bamban]

This analog readout is awesome. Too bad the ones out there cost twice as much as the ChiCom DROs. I can thread at a faster speed with a TravADial and catch the stop fairly easily. Definitely easier to catch the revolving hand than catching flipping DRO numbers.

Had this with the 1236 when I acquired it

 

[i4Marc]

Thank you everybody for your input. I'm liking the Precision Matthews 10X30 for a few reasons so that is likely the machine I will end up with. But the DRO option is $500 and is 2 axis. At this point I know almost nothing about lathes so you can't dumb it down enough for me. It sounds like a number of aftermarket DROs are quite a bit more affordable. There has also been mention above about tail stock DROs etc. How many places on a lathe can you place a DRO sensor? Can I get basically the same benefits of a DRO with a dial indicator setup? Although dial indicators aren't exactly cheap either. By the time I have three indicators at different locations on the lathe I could have gotten the DRO cheaper. Is the $500 for the DRO better spent on tooling?