DRO linear glass scale adaptation.

M

mikemm

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Hi all,

I have a 9 x 42 Bridgeport with a Mitutoyo DRO with 750 mm glass scale on x axis. Machine has plenty of use with moderate wear in the ways and screws.

I just came across a 9 x 32 Bridgeport with non chrome ways with all the original flaking clearly visible everywhere with almost no wear at all anywhere on machine with a super quiet head. I practically stole this machine for $300.00. Guy just wanted it gone and I couldn't resist. He even threw in a granite surface plate and a 12 inch Kamakura rotary table.

The shorter table actually works better for my space as I never have long parts to work on. I would like to move my DRO onto this machine. The y axis is not a problem but the x axis scale is longer than the table and I am not sure how to attach and what type of bracket to fabricate and if its even possible.

I would love to hear some suggestions.

Thanks
 
I guess I would bolt a piece of 1/2 x 2 aluminum bar stock to the table, then mount the scale to that. I also understand that it's possible to cut the scale, but I have never done one.

Sounds like you bought a rotary table, and they threw in a BP and surface plate. :grin:
 
I don't see any pics, what do they say if there are no pics? It didn't happen??
Share man, share.
 
If I use bar stock, I guess I will need to mill some relief slots in the stock where it will block the table drain holes. I also like the idea of cutting the scale. I don't know how practical that is though. Assuming I open the scale and see that milling away 10 inches of the housing still leaves enough supports for the glass element, there is also the mystery of cutting through the glass without ruining it. would love to hear how its done.
 
DRO Pros sells individual scales at a reasonable price. I would consider just getting another scale. If you decide to use the longetr scale with a bar, you can mount the bar on standoffs to clear your drain holes.

BTW, you got a super deal!
 
mikemm said:
If I use bar stock, I guess I will need to mill some relief slots in the stock where it will block the table drain holes. I also like the idea of cutting the scale. I don't know how practical that is though. Assuming I open the scale and see that milling away 10 inches of the housing still leaves enough supports for the glass element, there is also the mystery of cutting through the glass without ruining it. would love to hear how its done.
Click to expand...

Normally the drain holes are in the back, I always mount my scales on the front so I don't lose Y travel.
 
Why can't I ever find a deal like that? I'm not jealous, I'm mad. Lol.
Congratulations on the find.
Chuck
 
JimDawson said:
Normally the drain holes are in the back, I always mount my scales on the front so I don't lose Y travel.
Click to expand...
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The servo limit switch is in front leaving the back of table as only option for scale.

Jubil said:
Why can't I ever find a deal like that? I'm not jealous, I'm mad. Lol.
Congratulations on the find.
Chuck
Click to expand...

Thanks, I keep pinching myself on this find. So many kept slipping through my fingers in the 2k + range which I though were great deals at the time as the local rebuilder wanted 4K to scrape all 3 axis on my machine. I took a total chance figuring I was wasting my time to go see it. Its a 1968 machine with step pulley head but who cares at this price. The paint is all checked from being stored in an unheated space and the table needs a molasses bath for the next month or so to bring it back but otherwise its practically new.

I think im going to try to resize the scale
 
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