Drilling with my lathe

kentuckyjim

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A good portion of what I make involves drilling deep blind holes. I use collets To hold the nickel silver or duronze rod.My chuck is mounted in the tailstock. I have seen chucks that mount in a quick change tool holder. My post is AXA .Which set up is more rigid?
Advantages or disadvantages I should consider. This operation requires a level of precision that
Is at the outer limit of my skill set.
Any guidance is much appreciated.



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My opinion is that the tail stock is better. The reason I say that is that it tends to be larger that the QCTH and is "naturally" centered to the chuck. You can, of course, dial the tail stock in to get it as perfect as your indicators allow. The QCTH is mounted on the cross feed and would need to be dialed in each time you use it. In addition, the cross feed mechanism has back lash which the tail stock generally doesn't have. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
My opinion is that the tail stock is better. The reason I say that is that it tends to be larger that the QCTH and is "naturally" centered to the chuck. You can, of course, dial the tail stock in to get it as perfect as your indicators allow. The QCTH is mounted on the cross feed and would need to be dialed in each time you use it. In addition, the cross feed mechanism has back lash which the tail stock generally doesn't have. Just my 2 cents worth.

Thanks for the input. I center before I drill . I drill undersized and then ream to final dimension. However I often have chatter ( for lack of words to describe) at the mouth of the hole. Any suggestions ? I have been assuming a lack of rigidity.


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You don't say what lathe you're using but chatter can also come improper speed, feed, both or simply lack of lubrication. Play with those factors until it goes away....

John
 
I really appreciate the feed back! One further question if I may. I see
In catalogues spiral, reverse spiral, and straight reamers. Is there a style that is better for my application?
Thanks again to all who have responded so quickly.


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As said above, the tailstock is more rigid and already centered. However the advantage to the QCTH is faster advancement and withdrawal of the drill, an advantage with deep hole drilling for chip clearing. You can also use the power feed and quickly change between the drill, reamer etc. Kind of a turret lathe arraignment.
 
With regards to the holes. You don't specify the length of the hole or the tolerances you are needing to comply with only "This operation requires a level of precision that Is at the outer limit of my skill set.".

First, as stated, use the tail stock. It will provide the best support.

Here are the steps I would start with.
1) Ensure that your tail stock is properly aligned with the chuck. This should be done with an Alignment Tool and a test indicator to make the adjustment. When I do this, I try to get it into the tenths. Of course zero is best but not as easy to do with tail stock adjustments.
2) Use a centering drill to start your point of entry. I will assume that the face has been trued. When starting do not apply heavy force, touch and back to get things started. Light touches will help to prevent wondering of either the bit or the part.
3) You don't state the size or depth of hole, I would start with an undersized short shank drill for rigidity. The shorter the better.
4) Follow this with a larger drill diameter but again with the short shank. Be sure to not drive the bit, let it do the cutting, clear the chips often and lubricate with cutting oil. I like tapping oil.
5) Deapen the hole to the desired depth. If the depth is critical, again it is not called out, you can use a dial indicator. You can rig a collar on the quill of the tail stock that you can have the dial indicator rest against for measuring. Either use your mag base dial or you can get dial indicators with a magnetic back for this. Another item is to rig your tail stock with a single point DRO. There are other types too, all require some fab to mount.
6) Finally, complete the hole with your reamer, again clear the chips often, go slowly and use cutting oil.

Also ensure your drill bits are sharp. If ground properly, you will see even chips coming from both flutes. If they don't it will cause the drill to wonder.

I hope that this helps.
 
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I make metal ferrules for fishing rods. Blind holes from .125 to .267
the depth is 1” more or less. Since I am looking for a precision slip fit male to female I fit the males by hand. I have the tail stock set up with a DRO. I’m still not always getting the holes smooth, round and straight.


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What is the wall thickness of the material start and finish? I am reading into what you are describing and it sounds as though the wall is flexing during the boring (drill/ream) operations, but would think if the part is sufficiently supported by the collet this should not be an issue. How much of the part is supported and how much is protruding from the collet. I would think that the stock should be well inside the collet to prevent this.
Sorry for the number of questions. Trying to envision what is happening.
 
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