Drill chuck for mill

[Artemetra]

That Jacobs looks pretty good. You can get the taper adapter off and even pull the arbor, which can be replaced with the R8 or the 1/2" or 3/8" straight shank arbor. It's a little tricky to get arbors out of chucks but look around the forum there is info. Those Shars and other import adapters and arbors are pretty good, and run true.

I second the opinion of getting good chucks, don't settle for cheap, or at least start with cheap and keep looking for better. It's fun buying used ones (although they can have bad runout so be prepared to try twice/or they can be rebuilt). But when you are using a nice Jacobs or Albrecht keyless your world will go smoother. I use my Albrecht so much it's not funny. It's way worth the $50 you can get them for used, but remember there are some use up ones out there. New is another story, but I can say with a straight face they are worth every penny of the $300-$400 that they cost!

 

[hman]

Thanks again for your replies here I appreciate the help. I was telling a friend about chuck shopping and he offered me this Jacobs #32 with a tail stock . I know need to figure out how to change the shafts on this ?

Somewhere on the chuck there'll be an indication of which taper it has on the back end. Little Machine Shop (and probably lots of other vendors) sells wedge sets for the specific purpose of separating Jacobs tapers - put the wedges on either side of the space between the chuck and the existing adapter (slanted sides toward each other), set one down on a solid surface, and give the other one a whack. That'll separate the chuck from the Jacobs-to-Morse taper adapter:

http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3982&category=
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3983&category=

You can get either set for under $12 (+ shipping), or maybe you can ask around (friends, local machine shops, etc.) and borrow a set if you don't want to buy a single-use tool.

Then buy the appropriate taper adapter (either straight shank of R8). LMS has these, too.

 

[ebgb68]

Somewhere on the chuck there'll be an indication of which taper it has on the back end. Little Machine Shop (and probably lots of other vendors) sells wedge sets for the specific purpose of separating Jacobs tapers - put the wedges on either side of the space between the chuck and the existing adapter (slanted sides toward each other), set one down on a solid surface, and give the other one a whack. That'll separate the chuck from the Jacobs-to-Morse taper adapter:

http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3982&category=
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3983&category=

You can get either set for under $12 (+ shipping), or maybe you can ask around (friends, local machine shops, etc.) and borrow a set if you don't want to buy a single-use tool.

Then buy the appropriate taper adapter (either straight shank of R8). LMS has these, too.

Thanks for the info hman . I cant find anything on the chuck but the shaft has part number A0202 #2 morse taper ? I would assume the #2 wedge would work for that ?
Do you try to keep all your straight shaft tools the same shank size for quicker change over ? I have one chuck with a 3/4 straight shank should I try to match this smaller chuck to that?
Sorry for the late reply doing this in my spare time .
Thanks again Ed

 

[hman]

I cant find anything on the chuck but the shaft has part number A0202 #2 morse taper ? I would assume the #2 wedge would work for that?

Morse taper refers to the longish taper that you can see on the shaft sticking out of the chuck.. From your photo, it looks like a yours is probably a #2 Morse taper on the chuck, with a #2->#3 Morse taper adapter sleeved over it.

The chuck will have a Jacobs taper in its back end. Look on the chuck nose. Note where it says "No (?)2(??)" on your photo. Keep going around, and you should find a number and the word "taper" someplace. That will be the Jacobs taper number. Common Jacobs tapers are 3, 6, 33, and maybe 2.

Failing that, you can measure the diameter of the shank behind the chuck (just before the shoulder of the Morse taper section.) Then call LMS with that info, and they can tell you which wedge set to get.

Do you try to keep all your straight shaft tools the same shank size for quicker change over ? I have one chuck with a 3/4 straight shank should I try to match this smaller chuck to that?
Sorry for the late reply doing this in my spare time .
Thanks again Ed

I have R-8 adapters on my chucks. Don't consider it a big deal to change between the chuck and and whatever R8 collet I need for a milling cutter. The only "straight shaft tools" I have are center finders and the end mills themselves.