Thanks. It's working great for the moment. You can bet I'm going to ride those dogmeat tools like I stole them. When real dro's get here the way clamp will be fitted with a stop and probably provisions made for an indicator also. Who know's, maybe a hat rack and a trivet too. I have to justify spending hours on a few minutes worth of mill work. You know, like it's something that needed done, not just therapy.
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Dogmeat DRO and carriage stop
- Thread starter LEEQ
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2013
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I currently use a 2 inch dial indicator on my long feed and it works great within it's range but like she said, sometimes 2 inches is just not enough!
You have to treasure the one's who care enough to lie. " Wow honey I didn't even know they made indicators with that much travel."
I think in the one photo you can see that I drilled the axial hole up into the radial hole. In my world dogmeat tools are made with SOH(Shtuff on hand) material and tools. The 12-28 tap I had looked about perfect, but it was a bullet tap. I needed lots of depth for the tap to get a few full threads. Not ideal, but doable. It would have been even better if I had enough hex stock on hand to make two full length ones out of the brass. But it works and looks the same if you aren't peeking under there.
I think in the one photo you can see that I drilled the axial hole up into the radial hole. In my world dogmeat tools are made with SOH(Shtuff on hand) material and tools. The 12-28 tap I had looked about perfect, but it was a bullet tap. I needed lots of depth for the tap to get a few full threads. Not ideal, but doable. It would have been even better if I had enough hex stock on hand to make two full length ones out of the brass. But it works and looks the same if you aren't peeking under there.E, your lathe looks very familiar. Except it looks like you were 'shorted' in the toolpost/compound area. Ha Ha, punny guy. Is that an OXA post on a riser block? I like your indicator holder. Its much nicer than the junk mag base I was using.
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- Nov 27, 2012
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I've a got a 2" DI that I rarely use anymore. A while back I saw a DI that was like 4" travel, thing looked ridiculous & I thought "what the heck do they use those for?".
Starret makes 5" & 6" travel DIs!
The thought crossed my mind to get one. I couldn't have used it close to the headstock though, and I like using my (very short) collet chuck a lot. Collets rock. I have one set that fits in my taistock, headstock, mini-lathe head and tailstocks, mill spindle, rotary table, and both square and hex collet blocks. ER40's, and for the itty bitty a straight shank er11 chuck and collets that will slip right into a bigger er40 collet. I'm trying to dream up a quick change set up for my D1-4 collet chuck. I'm glad I didn't go with the new indicator, the next idea worked out much better.
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- Apr 8, 2013
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Leeq
The tool post is a BXA size. The riser block is about the same size as my compound so all my existing tooling still works. I wanted my dial indicator between the carriage and the head stock because when building rifles I often need to get the carriage out of the way to take measurements or try the fit of parts without taking the work out of the chuck. To keep the DI out of the way for close work I extended the holder so the the tail of the indicator is in front of the head stock instead of running into it. This allows me to work right up to a chuck, faceplate or collet.
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For some reason it looks tiny. That's strange, I use both an axa and bxa on my 12x36. You would think it would look about right. I thought the camera added 10 lbs. I don't always love my parting finishes, do you think yours are better without the compound in there than before?
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That's a Grizzly G4003G 12x36. I guess the angle of the shot makes it look off to you. I also use a one inch DI on the xfeed. You can just see it in the background of that picture. The riser block increases rigidity by eliminating one set of ways and definitely enhances cutoff. I thread straight in with the riser block as well. I only use the compound for tapers.