Do I Need A Collet Chuck?

I've ran lots of LATHES over the years owned a few , when I had the best LATHE I owned it came with a lever collet system. After running the LATHE with the all the tools set up I turned out parts very quickly and accurately. Yes you can work without a collet system but I wouldn't do without one . I'm going to build another collet setup for my logan. It's only 5C for now but in a bit it'll have a screw on er 40 collet chuck. So it's up to you I like them .
 
You don't NEED a collet chuck......... But they sure are nice. I would go with ER40 collets. I made my own chuck , it runs out at .0002". The repeatability is great. I can remove a part and put it back and it is right on.
 
After 30+ years I finally got a 5C collet chuck at the auction. It took a while to get it mounted, cleaned, make keys - but I really like it. I use it as often as possible - which is for about 5% of my projects.

In other words, nice to have, no problem getting by without.
 
You don't NEED a collet chuck......... But they sure are nice. I would go with ER40 collets. I made my own chuck , it runs out at .0002". The repeatability is great. I can remove a part and put it back and it is right on.

I agree. It is a great time saver to be able to take a part out and return.
 
Personally, I use my 5C collets for everything I can, for pretty much all of the reasons stated above. A good system with a good collet set isn't cheap, so as a hobbiest, I'm not sure I'd put out the money unless I had a really good reason. When I bought my lathe it came with a nice Royal collet closer system, I just had to buy the collets. As for using a collet block in a 4-jaw chuck, I think you'd be losing most of the advantages of the collet system.
Just my .02 cents.
Ted
 
Thank you all for the reply. Sounds like a collet chuck is nice to have but for the most part I can probably do without. I'll do some more research and probably buy a "true-set" collet chuck. Best wishes and thanks again.


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I'm in the ER collet chuck group. In my opinion, they are the most accommodating for the hobby guy and cost far less for a set of collets than a 5C system. We tend to turn lots of one off stuff that isn't exactly nominal size and the 5C system does not accommodate that well unless you custom bore an emergency collet. An ER collet also grabs the part with the whole collet, unlike the 5C that grabs with about 1/2" at the front.

If you can find a direct mount D1-5 ER-40 chuck that would be ideal. I have one from HHIP that has 0.0001" concentricity. Even a set-tru chuck would be hard pressed to exceed that. A hobby guy is not likely to need this kind of accuracy but I wanted to make the point that these chucks are out there.

On the other hand, the guys are right. Once you turn the part (without removing it), it will be concentric with the lathe axis regardless of how you hold it. The advantage of the collet chuck is speed, the ability to grab a threaded part without deforming the threads and in the case of the ER system, it allows you to grab parts that are not nominal size.
 
I would not by a collet chuck but rather a 5mt to 5c adapter. Then you can make your own draw bar or by the grizzly one for a closer and just make your own end piece.
The grizzly 5mt to 5c nose piece is part # P4026001 and sells for $98.00 the drawbar for the closer is # P4026004 and sells for $38.00
I got those #'s from the G4026 collet closer that fits G4002 and G4003 lathes. The closer is $369.00
The closer in my mind is nothing but a hinderance. All it does well is open and close a collet quickly for repetitive work in one collet size.
Your own drawbar will just rotate with the spindle and can be tightened and loosened by putting the lathe in low gear (not running) and turning the drawbar handle. I have two I made one has a thrust bearing and the other a tapered hardened piece that can rotate on the tube so it is non turning once it hits the spindle when tightening or loosening.
 
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