- Joined
- Jul 2, 2014
- Messages
- 7,571
I have a couple nice hickory mallets. Hardly ever use them, though. Hammer drawer eye candy. They will probably be passed on in pristine condition to the next generation, the third one...
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Dead Blow Hammer
- Thread starter EmilioG
- Start date
Funny you should ask, just made up a maple stable mate for my old beech mallet. Couldn't bring myself to burn an old railing that was replaced recently so I made up a mallet with some of it. Fun little project to do with the grandkids. These are strictly reserved for wood chisel work so we will probably never see the end of them.
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2014
- Messages
- 1,366
Hammer Source.com has the Garland hammers. I'm leaning towards the Nupla Impax dead blow, but will probably buy several hammers.
A very small brass hammer for lightly tapping work into place also. The Snap On Bronze tip hammer is awesome. I work on my cars, so that one
will last a long time. I think I'm up to 12 hammers and mallets so far.
They all have their applications. A Starrett tech suggested a 30 lb. dead blow for
installing press fit pins into Tap wrench handles! I found out when I recently repaired a vintage Starrett 91c.
A very small brass hammer for lightly tapping work into place also. The Snap On Bronze tip hammer is awesome. I work on my cars, so that one
will last a long time. I think I'm up to 12 hammers and mallets so far.
They all have their applications. A Starrett tech suggested a 30 lb. dead blow for installing press fit pins into Tap wrench handles! I found out when I recently repaired a vintage Starrett 91c.
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2014
- Messages
- 2,671
I use a lead hammer. When the lead deforms to the point of no return, I swap it out for a new replacement. I made a mold and simply cast new heads using fishing weights and even the worn out heads. Been using the lead hammer for 50 years. Tried the other hammers, went back to using the lead hammer. And not every job I do gets hit with a lead hammer. I have a Kurt vise that does a good job of holding things without the help of smacking you project every time…Dave.
I have Stanley, Proto, and Estwing dead-blows. The Estwing is the nicest of them, but the Proto and Stanley ones are fine, too.
The GJ folks like Trusty-Cook dead blows, but I haven't tried one yet.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
The GJ folks like Trusty-Cook dead blows, but I haven't tried one yet.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2017
- Messages
- 307
Here's what I have at this point in time.
10lb lead, double copper Thor, copper/rawhide Thor, smallest size Thor and a teeny tapper for micro adjustments.
The small Thor I've had for 30 yrs and its due for replacement. The double copperhead Thor is a recent garage sale $3 bargain, these sell for well over $50 here.
The lead hammer is an old departmental item from the waterworks where I did my apprenticeship, made inhouse with a length of reo bar set in the handle for strength.
Weighs about 15lbs and good for knocking the daylights out of anything. No need to smack workpieces on the mill with this, just light taps.
10lb lead, double copper Thor, copper/rawhide Thor, smallest size Thor and a teeny tapper for micro adjustments.
The small Thor I've had for 30 yrs and its due for replacement. The double copperhead Thor is a recent garage sale $3 bargain, these sell for well over $50 here.
The lead hammer is an old departmental item from the waterworks where I did my apprenticeship, made inhouse with a length of reo bar set in the handle for strength.
Weighs about 15lbs and good for knocking the daylights out of anything. No need to smack workpieces on the mill with this, just light taps.
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2017
- Messages
- 2,128
A philisophical point, to me, on the use of "dead blow" hammers: I personally don't use 'em. at all. If something has to be hit hard enough to bounce the hammer, take a second look at what is being hit, You wouldn't use a tack hammer on a bulldozer and wouldn't use a 15 pound sledge on a watch. Each one has it's uses and purposes. I use lead in the machine shop, rawhide in the electric shop (copper windings) and brass for my models. The hammer has to be heavy enough to move your work alone. If you have to swing hard enough for the hammer to bounce, the hammer's too small.
Lead is my most frequently used. I cast a new one every few months, with a piece of EMT for a handle. For a fairly big one, a (12 oz) soda can (or beer can) makes a good mold. For the bench size, I use a toilet paper roller wrapped with sheet metal to hold its round shape while I pour the lead. Half to three quarters full makes a good size for general bench use. Brass is shaped as needed on the lathe and a handle put in. I prefer a hickory handle, but that's just me being an old timer. A well shaped metal handle works just as well.
I have a twenty-five pound sledge ("millwright's" hammer), a "B&O" of some 12 pounds after I cut down the punch, and a railroad spike hammer (a "steepnose"?) of about the same weight. And a couple dozen of a lesser size. The big issue is that sometimes you want the hammer harder so it will stand up, such as the spike hammer. And sometimes softer than what you're shoving into place. Such as a joiner's wooden mallet. And the occasional oddball such as a leather hammer for motor windings and hard rubber for thin sheet matal.
With time, hammers are a personal taste issue, depending as much on background as anything. If you use a steel hammer to move a piece of soft metal on a machine, never hit it hard enough to leave a mark or a dent. That's where all those odd metals come in, each softer than the work it's used for. As often as not, a large chunk of copper, brass, aluminium, wood, plastic, or whatever can serve the purpose just as well. You shape it into a hammer about the third time you use it.
Lead is my most frequently used. I cast a new one every few months, with a piece of EMT for a handle. For a fairly big one, a (12 oz) soda can (or beer can) makes a good mold. For the bench size, I use a toilet paper roller wrapped with sheet metal to hold its round shape while I pour the lead. Half to three quarters full makes a good size for general bench use. Brass is shaped as needed on the lathe and a handle put in. I prefer a hickory handle, but that's just me being an old timer. A well shaped metal handle works just as well.
I have a twenty-five pound sledge ("millwright's" hammer), a "B&O" of some 12 pounds after I cut down the punch, and a railroad spike hammer (a "steepnose"?) of about the same weight. And a couple dozen of a lesser size. The big issue is that sometimes you want the hammer harder so it will stand up, such as the spike hammer. And sometimes softer than what you're shoving into place. Such as a joiner's wooden mallet. And the occasional oddball such as a leather hammer for motor windings and hard rubber for thin sheet matal.
With time, hammers are a personal taste issue, depending as much on background as anything. If you use a steel hammer to move a piece of soft metal on a machine, never hit it hard enough to leave a mark or a dent. That's where all those odd metals come in, each softer than the work it's used for. As often as not, a large chunk of copper, brass, aluminium, wood, plastic, or whatever can serve the purpose just as well. You shape it into a hammer about the third time you use it.