D1-4 Chucks Back Plate Interchangability

If you read that pdf file I linked too, it gives descriptions of a precision installation and just throwing the chuck on and goin,and what to expect
 
If you read that pdf file I linked too, it gives descriptions of a precision installation and just throwing the chuck on and goin,and what to expect

I do not intend to just slap it on. Thepdf is a good article. When I said a piece of cake I meant that it is doable for anyone who can read, understand, and put to use what he read! Thanks again for your help.
Elmo
 
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Elmo, I was directing that towards rust, seems he didn't read it at all, as it has that pertinent information in the document
 
Elmo, I was directing that towards rust, seems he didn't read it at all, as it has that pertinent information in the document

Thanks for the help Chevydyl! I have it on the lathe and .0005 runout on the chuck. The Grizzley studs are more of a kit. I emailed them that two of the studs wouldn't screw down more than halfway while one would bottom in all the holes and never heard from them. I went to the hardware store and bought a 10X1 mm die and ran it down a few times them turned it over and repeated. They then worked. Now if I could get proficient at centering my work piece! I appreciate your help.
Elmo
 
Elmo, thanks for keeping us posted. When you were cleaning up the threads on the studs from Grizzly, did the steel seem very hard?
 
No it isn't very hard. I had to file one of the engaging slots to remove some roughness and it cut pretty easily with jeweler so files. Made me think!
Elmo
 
Had a similar problem with D1-4 pins on a Chinese 5C D1-4 chuck, cleaned the threads and the relief near the stud. Was surprised that they did not seem hardened.

Elmo, there is a nice thread on centering with the 4 jaw chuck, lots of information. I prefer to use two keys, just find it faster to do both jaws at once, then tighten up one key to get the last tweak. Independent four jaw chucks are probably a bit more challenging with smaller stock, I just find with the larger jaws/flats that stock may twist a bit when tightening everything up. Mostly use a 5C for anything under an inch, seems to work well, but one needs a lot of collets and a bit slow if you are using a 5C chuck.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/quickly-aligning-a-four-jaw-lathe-chuck.34609/
 
Had a similar problem with D1-4 pins on a Chinese 5C D1-4 chuck, cleaned the threads and the relief near the stud. Was surprised that they did not seem hardened.

Elmo, there is a nice thread on centering with the 4 jaw chuck, lots of information. I prefer to use two keys, just find it faster to do both jaws at once, then tighten up one key to get the last tweak. Independent four jaw chucks are probably a bit more challenging with smaller stock, I just find with the larger jaws/flats that stock may twist a bit when tightening everything up. Mostly use a 5C for anything under an inch, seems to work well, but one needs a lot of collets and a bit slow if you are using a 5C chuck.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/quickly-aligning-a-four-jaw-lathe-chuck.34609/

I have read that thread, it is good information and is the method that I used except that I only have one chuck key. I did find that a 3/8" socket extension sorta works but is loose and might wear the chuck recesses so I just used the one key. I think that practice will help.
Elmo
 
Go buy a piece of 1/2 inch square stock or round and make a new chuck key by grinding, weld a handle on it to form a T, exactly what I did when I got my lathe, but I used 4140 tgp round bar
 
Good idea. I have some metal that will work.
Elmo
 
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