CVA lathe

David, I mainly use the metalworking machines to make parts for the next machine but as you know, I enjoy the best of the old stuff. I'd grade myself mediocre + as a machinist. Need to get back to some woodworking projects for my daughter so the Robinson, Whitney, and Olivers will get some use. Damn accounting business gets in the way and I am a shadow of my former self in the efficiency department. Dave
 
A little update on the CVA. Machine is running and appears to be worth the effort of having a real rebuilder assess it. Got the VFD drive system from Mark Jacobs- electronic jewelry. Will still repaint the plate with the E stop, pot, and mist switch. The old towmotor got the machine on the trailer easily in spite of my clumsy driving. Dave
 

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The CVA has been gone to the rebuilder for almost a year and will soon return. Somewhere the tailstock screw got lost so I made a new one. I'm lucky to know a couple of CVA guys in the UK and got a drawing with dimensions. I planned to try acme threads but found that McMaster Carr sells 1/2-8 LH rod so bought that for about what an insert would cost. Turned down the end to match a bore I drilled. I missed the interference fit the first try but aimed for +.0007-.001 on the second. Heated the part and pressed the rod into the holder and milled some keys and a BSF 1/4-26 threaded bore on the end.

The other screw in the picture is the old worn cross slide screw on the Smart Brown 1024. I found a new one in UK and replaced it. That really tightened up the 1024 and made hitting the numbers much easier. I can generally hold .0005 if I'm careful setting up the collet or regular chuck. The bigger problem is being careful.

Dave
 

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Looks like a nice lathe Dave! I had to look it up on Lathes UK. good luck on the restoratio.
 
The CVA has been gone to the rebuilder for almost a year and will soon return. Somewhere the tailstock screw got lost so I made a new one. I'm lucky to know a couple of CVA guys in the UK and got a drawing with dimensions. I planned to try acme threads but found that McMaster Carr sells 1/2-8 LH rod so bought that for about what an insert would cost. Turned down the end to match a bore I drilled. I missed the interference fit the first try but aimed for +.0007-.001 on the second. Heated the part and pressed the rod into the holder and milled some keys and a BSF 1/4-26 threaded bore on the end.

The other screw in the picture is the old worn cross slide screw on the Smart Brown 1024. I found a new one in UK and replaced it. That really tightened up the 1024 and made hitting the numbers much easier. I can generally hold .0005 if I'm careful setting up the collet or regular chuck. The bigger problem is being careful.

Dave
Love the old S&B round head, kind of a fan myself. The cross slide screw must be a weakness, mine was pretty worn too (I made the replacement as the Bracehand price was rather steep).
 

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Agree, I found one cheaper but they aren't hard to duplicate. Hard to find that size in a precision ground screw but a DRO kind of solves that. My compound screw is even worse which leads me to believe the lathe was used a lot for threading. I'm not sure how worn the main leadscrew is.

I tend to believe that although the ways are marketed as hardened, they are fairly soft in comparison to some lathes. No real way to assess that though. Dave
 
After a year, CVA has returned home. The rebuilder had some family health issues that delayed the process but i was busy most of that time working on the old Monarch 60. The bed was ground and about .010 taken off the Vee and Turcite of approx .030 was added to the saddle and scraped in. The CVA is a very close copy of a 10EE but with a 6 speed gearbox located near the motor. There is a back gear but like the 10EE, there are no gears in the headstock. My Smart Brown is similar in that regard which makes for a fine finish. The gearbox runs in oil and originally had several leaks, as did other areas. All is dry now. The feed and thread gearbox had issues but i found replacements for the broken parts in the UK. I had been into the lathe and fixed enough to get it running and assess what i had. I'm fair at rehabbing the mechanical stuff and decent at the cosmetic but don't have the ability or desire to grind and scrape. It has been nice to have a machine that is like new but built as they were in the 1950s.

I still need to level, convert the drive to a vfd system Mark Jacobs did for me, and do some real testing. As it stands, with an old chuck and a stick out of 4", a 1.5" steel bar tests within .0004-.0006. I expect to dial it in a little better when I sort through the variables. Cross slide screw has .005 backlash but was good enough to leave alone. There was some wear in the center but not much given the .005 compromise si it was not replaced. Seals, and assorted parts were replaced, motor was swapped to a Baldor ECP 5 hp, and oiling system was repaired.

All in all, I'm happy with the work. Not a Concours or Tailstock 4 restoration but I wouldn't want to pay for that level ( at least cosmetically ) either.

I'll have more later and will talk about the economics vs fixing what doesn't work and saving the money if there is interest. I'm an accountant in real life so the money part of the experiment is of interest in my world.

Dave
 

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Beautiful machine....
 
Came out very nicely. Should be a joy to run. Mike
 
That lathe has very clean lines. You'll have a smile on your face every time you use that!
 
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