Cutting Round bar

Did you check the dia of the rods? They may be different and causing vibration. Maybe putting something like a block of hardwood on the moveable jaw will give a better grip. You might need to rig a clamp to hold them down in the vise too.
 
pineyfolks said:
Did you check the dia of the rods? They may be different and causing vibration. Maybe putting something like a block of hardwood on the moveable jaw will give a better grip. You might need to rig a clamp to hold them down in the vise too.
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This maybe my problem. Thanks pineyfolks


Are their any opinions on a different blade, type or pitch that may work better on the material I'm cutting

Danny
 
Abrasive chop saws are messy and put a lot of heat into the work. I got a good deal on a used Dewalt 14" metal cutting chop saw that uses the carbide toothed metal cutting blades. These look like a regular abrasive chopsaw, but run at a slower speed and use a special blade. It has been great. Most of the heat goes into the chip, so your workpiece doesn't come out blue on the end. If you get the Dewalt blades, they last a long time. I tried some cheaper blades, but they dulled quickly. I've only actualy messed up one of the Dewalt blades, because I fed it too fast into a piece of flat 1/4" and knocked a tooth off it. The second Dewalt blade is still in the machine, I keep the one with the missing tooth for backup. I would highly recomend one of these type of saws (I think several others make them now), but stick with the brand name blades. I only saved $10 on the cheap blade I bought, and it lasted no time. I think one of these would solve your problem for cutting these, and I think you will be satisfied with it for other work as well.
 
THANKS CJTOOMBS

I'VE BEEN CURIOUS B
ABOUT THOSE SAWS I'VE HEARD THEY ARE A BIT SLOWER THAN A ABRASIVE SAW.

Sorry about the caps.

Danny
 
It is faster than the abrasive saw that I had, but that's not saying much, it was a cheap HF unit. It might indeed be slower than a good abrasive saw, but I couldn't vouch for that.
 
DANNYBOY said:
I'm sure I've got this in the wrong forum so feel free to move it or let me know where to put it.:whiteflag: LOL

Anyway, Thought I'd ask the advice of the knowledgeable folks here. I'm cutting 7/8" Round bar 1" long I have been cutting a stick in 4 pieces and tacking it together and cutting it in the band saw. but it has a tendancy to strip teeth form time to time I'm using a lenox 10/14 bi-metal.I also stack 1x1x14ga.sq.tube, 3/4x3/4x11ga.sq.tube and 3/4 sch.40 pipe with no problems.

Does anyone have a better idea for cutting this(chop saw,cold saw) or mabey a diffrent blade.

Thanks, Danny
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I do that all the time and I stack the rod like this
00
0000
and I use a water based coolant to wash the chips away and I cutting 1'' X 30'' long I get a 20' long bar cut it in 5' and I tape it together every 12''
or so and I cut away with no prob at all you blade may be off track if it is line it up the other day I was cutting a flat bar and my blade was out of line and boom it pop the blade
put a new blade on and looking at what was the prob with the saw and it was out of line by a little but a little is all it takes
 
I agree with Terry and others that you should be using a coarser blade. I have done this many times with both band saw and power hacksaw, I would also not bother tack welding the ends, you might be gettting vibration between the rods, you would be much better by clamping the stack both in the work vice,and by clamping top to bottom, that is how we used to do it in a production situation.

I would also try to stack more rods in at each cut, and stack them nested rather than square, So you start with say 4 or 5 rods on the bottom layer then 1 les in the next layer then back to the same as the first then 1 less, try to create a block that is the same hight as width, use a piece of scrap wood or hard rubber aginst the moving jaw of the vice and the same on top of the pack with the top to bottom clamp, this will elliminate any irregularities between rods. Choose your blade, the coarsest possible for the pack size, speed and feed as if the pack was solid, use flood coolant and if not possible use some air to blow out swarf from between the rods

Like so. This will give a more continuous cut and even load on the blade.
O O O O O
O O O O
O O O O O
O O O O
O O O O O
Make sure the pack is clamped tight both horizontal and vertical.
 
Gang cutting round stock can be tricky if your clamping system isn't up to the task. Tacking the end will help but if you have ANY rotation/slip you will kill your blade. A photo of your setup might help us better help you. A courser blade is recommended to prevent chip loading as other have mentioned.
 
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