Cutting Oil

[bill70j]

For general purpose cutting I've been using Oatey Dark Threading oil. It works great for just about everything. The downside is that it does have Sulphur in it so it does stink.

I use the Oatey Dark Threading oil also.

For aluminum I use an 80% kerosene:20% ATF mix

 

[bakrch]

Also a fan of Ridgid dark thread cutting oil. Probably because I work for the parent company and get it for free, but it works nicely.

 

[talvare]

When turning steels in the lathe, I use Mobil 766 as a flood lubricant. When tapping, I use Castrol Moly DEE CF for steels and WD-40 for aluminum. Both seem to work well. I was recently tapping some stainless steel of unknown alloy and was having a lot of difficulty so decided to try some Anchor Lube that I'd had sitting unused on my workbench for a couple of years. Although tapping was still pretty tough, it was significantly easier than using either the Molly Dee or Mobil 766.

Ted

 

[Ulma Doctor]

i often turn dry, but i get wet when drilling, & tapping
but when it get's wet, i use Anchor Lube, Rigid Dark, Bacon Grease/ Mineral Oil Mix, WD-40, Tap Magic and Kerosene for different materials

i really like the Tap Magic, bacon grease/mineral oil mix, and the Anchor Lube

 

[devils4ever]

Is Mobil Vactra No 2 oil good for use as a cutting oil? I've got a gallon of the stuff which will last me years.

Or, should I go for Tap Magic Xtra Thick, Rigid, or Oatley?

 

[macardoso]

I prefer semi synthetic coolant in a squeeze bottle. A gallon of concentrate used this way will last forever. The dried concentrate won't rust and washes away with water. I use tap magic or equivalent for tapping or heavy drilling. The coolant makes way less of a mess.

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I use these for all my shop fluids. It keeps me from going crazy with spraying oil everywhere. Also they work great for oiling ball oilers.

 

[rjs44032]

Just my 2 cents: I rarely use cutting oil. Only use it for tapping or broaching. If I need coolant then I use that.

Cutting oil is more trouble than it's worth. Some folks use it to compensate for tooling that is dull. This just makes things worse. Cutting oil causes the work, cutter, and everything else to heat up with the work. Like deep-frying in oil. I like to let the heat be removed with the chips.

I had a heated (no pun) discussion regarding that with a former boss. I was drilling out a 1 1/2" hole on the BP one day. Boss sees me pushing the drill through material with one finger on the handle. And says "oil that cutter." I replied it wasn't necessary and I didn't want to clean up the mess it would make. He argued that I would ruin the cutter without it. I then pulled the handle up and grabbed the drill with my hand to show it wasn't hardly warm. It would have burned my hand if I was using oil. Anyway, I still have SD drill bits that have been through hundreds of uses in like new condition. Use correct cutting speeds and feeds. Allow the chips to carry away the heat from the process.

Use cutting oil only when absolutely nothing else will suffice. On those occasions I use WD-40. It works great for cutting, tapping, and broaching. And it's available about anywhere. I will sometimes concede it is helpful with some gummy materials like aluminum. But even then coolants are my first choice.

Ok. I have my flame-suit on now for all naysayers. Hope this helps.

Best Regards,
Bob

 

[projectnut]

I guess my experiences have been considerably different. I deal mostly with 300 and 400 series stainless and a variety of tool steels. Trying to drill or mill these materials without coolant or lubricant makes short work of mills and drills. Cutting oils provide some cooling properties as well as allowing swarf to freely flow from the work area.

In my experience HSS drills and even those with some percentage of cobalt don't last long drilling dry in 316 stainless. Swarf flows considerably easier from a milled or drilled holes in 6061 aluminum when WD40 is used as a lubricant. It also keeps the aluminum from welding itself to the drill.

If you deal mainly with 1018 or similar mild or low carbon steels I would agree that cutting oil is generally not necessary.

I do use Anchor lube for tapping most stainless, and WD40 for tapping and turning 6061 aluminum.

 

[rjs44032]

Projectnut,

Agreed there are some materials that just need it. Like Inconel and those that you mentioned. I would opt for using coolant on any thing like that. I am not opposed to using coolants, just general use of cutting oils. Coolants actually remove heat from the work by evaporation. Also coolants are a lot easier to work in and clean up after.

Best Regards,
Bob

 

[MrWhoopee]

Whatever sulfurized cutting oil is available at the local hardware store for steel. WD-40 or kerosene for aluminum. Coolant would be nice sometimes, but flood is not a possibility and my shop is so small that a mister would drive me out in no time.

Is Mobil Vactra No 2 oil good for use as a cutting oil?

Vactra #2 is way oil. It does not contain sulfur, which improves the machinability of steel. Save it for the ways.