Cutting aluminum sheet without a shear

mgalusha

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Wasn't quite sure where to post this but thought I'd throw it out there. A few years back I was trying to find a way to cut aluminum sheet or plate without a shear. I found a post on some forum, no idea where at this point but the guy suggested using a non ferrous blade in a table saw. Given how nice his projects looked I figured I'd give it a try. I had occasion to cut a few things tonight so I thought I'd snap a few photos.

The blade I bought is from Oshlun, 10" 100T non ferrous blade. It leaves a finish that almost doesn't require deburring, really smooth. The parts are telcom rack trays, these were heading to the landfill when the building folks where I work were cleaning out an old telco and server room. I ordered a Koolmist and it arrived today and begged for a shelf on the mill, one of these shelves was perfect except they have a piece about 2" wide that sticks out behind the mounting flanges. No problem, put the blade in, a piece of 1/2" thick particle board under the part to keep the lips clear of the table, ear protectors and a full face shield and 20 seconds later it's done. Just a thought if you need to cut plate or sheet with a clean edge and don't have a shear or access to one.

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2014-05-06 18.28.34.jpg 2014-05-06 18.36.43.jpg 2014-05-06 18.36.48.jpg 2014-05-06 18.39.50.jpg 2014-05-06 19.01.11-2.jpg 2014-05-06 19.03.43.jpg
 
For aluminum you can use gulf wax from a grocery store for lube..run against blade then cut,keeps blade from clogging up with aluminum
 
Paper cutters also work for thin metals.
 
Wish I could find a houseful of racks and shelves going away!

Good job on the cutting. Definitely need ears for that work.
 
Wasn't quite sure where to post this but thought I'd throw it out there. A few years back I was trying to find a way to cut aluminum sheet or plate without a shear. I found a post on some forum, no idea where at this point but the guy suggested using a non ferrous blade in a table saw. Given how nice his projects looked I figured I'd give it a try. I had occasion to cut a few things tonight so I thought I'd snap a few photos.

The blade I bought is from Oshlun, 10" 100T non ferrous blade. It leaves a finish that almost doesn't require deburring, really smooth. The parts are telcom rack trays, these were heading to the landfill when the building folks where I work were cleaning out an old telco and server room. I ordered a Koolmist and it arrived today and begged for a shelf on the mill, one of these shelves was perfect except they have a piece about 2" wide that sticks out behind the mounting flanges. No problem, put the blade in, a piece of 1/2" thick particle board under the part to keep the lips clear of the table, ear protectors and a full face shield and 20 seconds later it's done. Just a thought if you need to cut plate or sheet with a clean edge and don't have a shear or access to one.

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The last shop I worked in used a skill saw and a carbide tipped blade to cut aluminium tread plate. It threw chips everywhere but had no problems cutting 1/4" thick stock. Used to cover work platforms.
 
For aluminum you can use gulf wax from a grocery store for lube..run against blade then cut,keeps blade from clogging up with aluminum

I should have mentioned that, I did wax the blade first.

Wish I could find a houseful of racks and shelves going away!

Good job on the cutting. Definitely need ears for that work.

Yes indeed, it makes quite a racket and as Bill C mentions, chips go everywhere. Safety glasses and a face shield are the order of the day.

The last shop I worked in used a skill saw and a carbide tipped blade to cut aluminium tread plate. It threw chips everywhere but had no problems cutting 1/4" thick stock. Used to cover work platforms.

1/4" plate is the thickest I've cut but I sliced some 2" brass bar rail with the same type of blade in the miter saw, same results, clean and square. They make a slow speed version that uses something like a 14" blade but I think a bandsaw may be better for general purpose stock cutting.
 
Good job!

I don't have a metal-cutting band saw. My table saw has worked well for cutting aluminum sheet, up to 1/8" without lubrication. I have cut 1" thick aluminum bar on my miter saw using WD-40 as lubrication.

The table saw can catch and fling pieces, especially when using the rip fence. It's important to use a push stick that has a rubber or plastic tip and push by holding the piece down. Don't just push from the back.

Walt
 
Good job!
The table saw can catch and fling pieces, especially when using the rip fence. It's important to use a push stick that has a rubber or plastic tip and push by holding the piece down. Don't just push from the back.

No question, the TS is a mighty nasty tool. I have some of the Micro Jig GRR-Ripper push blocks, love those things.
 
I have also cut sheet metal/plate on my table saw. I don’t think it’s for everyone though. You make one little mistake and the metal will fly! It’s not forgiving. I found that if you raise the blade “just” above the metal being cut and no more above the metal than that, then It will be a little safer…Good Luck
 
I cut most of the aluminum (1/8 plate, various sizes of tubing, and some nylon blocks) for my paramotor project using a non ferrous blade from McMaster on my radial arm saw. Stick wax is necessary, and on a RAS it's better to push the blade into the work. With the RAS, short cuts can be made against the backstop so it won't fling the work.

The metal gets HOT, though.

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