Cutting aluminum plate with table saw

[savarin]

The Giant Binocular

I rounded the ends at 500rpm with the 12mm end mill. Thanks to Bob Korves for suggesting the speed. Virtually a hot knife through butter. all 6 done with the handle I used as an aid. To weld them to the base I clamped a length of steel to the legs as guide to keep the angles correct...

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check out post 83

The Giant Binocular

Your idea has merit but not using the satellite dish. I will be flexing the 12" mirrors like this http://www.skyandtelescope.com/wp-content/uploads/Adler-MirrorFlex.pdf It may be worth experimenting with the largest circle you could cut from those mirrors, supporting it on a rubber ring and just...

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and post 136
for some aluminium I cut on the table saw. These were cut without a fence.
The chips get everywhere as others have said.

 

[MikeInOr]

I just cut some 1/8" aluminum plate on my radial arm saw yesterday. I used a 12" Diablo Steel demon blade rated for 1800 rpm on my 16" RAS because that is what I had on hand and it worked great. If I were going to buy a blade I would buy an aluminum specific blade... which I will pick up some day when I find a decent deal.

 

[Nogoingback]

I cut aluminum plate on my table saw with a blade made for non ferrous metals (it has zero rake teeth).
It always makes me nervous when I do it, but I've never had a problem. When I need to cut an angle, I sometimes clamp or screw the part to a plywood "sled" that I run along the fence.

 

[rwm]

If you get an actual aluminum cutting blade it works fine. I have a Rigid contractor saw with the Diablo 10" blade specified above. I have used it to cut up to 1" thick castings. It handles that fine and gives a great finish. Just get a blade specified for non-ferrous/aluminum.

Robert

 

[WCraig]

I generally agree with what the other posters have written but I'll add one tip. Use a slightly smaller blade. An 8 or 9 inch blade on a 10 inch table saw means that the teeth are travelling somewhat slower than normal. That means the chips and debris are at sub-light speed when they hit you!

I've cut several pieces of AL on my old Unisaw with an 8 inch carbide blade. That is basically my 'rough work' blade. No permanent harm to anyone or anything involved. Goes quickly and certainly didn't tax the saw. Decent finish on the cut pieces. Even a 7.5 inch carbide blade ought to work.

Craig

 

[fcs]

Thanks for everyone’s advice. I have occasionally cut small aluminum angle etc. on the table saw so I am familiar with the shrapnel and hideous scream. I have ordered an 8 inch non-ferrous blade and will use plenty of lube.

 

[cjtoombs]

I haven't cut aluminum that thick, but my advice would be to use a blade with as many teeth as you can get and do the cut in one pass, with the blade set to be just above the work. That way you have several teeth engaging at the same time. Use good table saw practice in general to prevent kickback (no small pieces between the blade and the fence, use featherboards if possible). As for the PPE mentioned above, I agree, it's a messy job with lots of high speed swarf flying around.

 

[fcs]

Thanks for everyone's suggestions. Thought I should give a follow-up. Everything went smoothly.

I ordered this inexpensive nonferrous blade from Amazon: Concord Blade

I fastened the aluminum to a plywood scrap with small screws in the corners. Generous wax lube on the teeth and the top of the workpiece. The blade set to just clear the work by maybe 1/8 inch. The cuts went easy-peasy. I used the miter gauge not the fence. About like cutting 4/4 oak. Chips went down not up. I turned the piece on edge and worried out the cut for the wheel.



A little more engineering on adjustment and support is planned.