Cutting Aluminum on the Home Shop Table Saw.

[jgedde]

Here's my take: only as an absolute LAST RESORT... With the right blade, it should, in theory be possible. I'd go with a neutral rake or negative rake non-ferrous metal blade. I'd limit my cuts to only certain alloys. Not that gummy stuff they make fixture plates out of.

I've cut brass on the table saw using a blade like that and it went very well and gave a very good finish. However, I was a bundle of nerves doing it and was very happy when I was done. That said, the workpiece was clamped to a sled that prevented kickback or cocking of the workpiece.

I'd say unless you're an expert table saw user in wood, don't experiment with metal unless you have no other choice. It's sort of unpublished territory...

John

John

 

[j ferguson]

I have to confess to having cut a lot of aluminum with a table saw. And yes, everyone who says it's dangerous is right.

I NEVER used the fence. If a chunk gets jammed between the blade and the fence it is much more likely to get exciting than with wood, although teak can sometimes raise the adrenalin.

I NEVER cut where to do so would require standing in the plane of the blade.

I NEVER cut where there wasn't plenty of room downwind from the blade if it threw something, and

I NEVER made a cut where there was much material being cut off.

My thinking was that I could build up a pretty good fixture to hang onto the part of the stock that I was keeping, but not the other. Fixture would be clamped to slide so that I was moving the slide, fixture, and stock past the blade not holding the stock by hand. This makes it a lot easier to stand beside the saw not in line with the blade.

I used this setup mostly to trim and make nice finishes on 6061-T6 parts I made for small projects. I was also constrained by having only a drill press, the cheap aluminum Delta table saw, and a saber saw. This was all done on our trawler with the saw clamped to a B&D ShopMate folding bench while anchored somewhere or other on the ICW.

Although there's no denying that table saws are great for a lot of jobs, I find them terrifying, especially when the cut does require that you stand in front of the blade, making 4X8s smaller for example.

 

[PGB1]

I still am wary of cutting metal on a table saw but J. Ferguson made a great statement about not using the fence. Thinking about it, I will bet lots of ejected work is caused by binding at the fence. One tiny deviation from parallel...

I wonder if having a 'Safety Lid' would add a margin of safety by keeping any ejected work piece from flying upwards. It would shoot backwards only and you are not in the kill zone. With the lid, the fence would not touch the workpiece.

"Safety Lid"???
Make an L shaped board as long as the table. Clamp the up-facing vertical leg to the fence, leaving the horizontal leg a bit higher than the thickness of the metal being cut.
(Example- If the work piece is 1" thick, leave the board 1-1/8" above the table.)

IMPORTANT- Leave the fence wider from the blade than the cut off width, thus effectively not using a fence like J Ferguson said.
(Example- If the cut off it 6" wide, set the fence 7" or more from the blade.)

REALLY IMPORTANT- Use a notched push stick to send the work through the saw, directing the work with your hand on the side opposite of the lid.
(Example- If the fence is left of the blade, push & guide with the right side hand.)
I suppose that the push stick can be used under the lid with hand number two.

This is just a theory- I'm sure there are bugs to be worked out.

 

[Fabrickator]

I have cut aluminum on a table saw a few times using every precaution described. But I operate alone, and I just can't afford to take that kind of risk so I just use one of 5 o of the usual methods that are not as dangerous. The only thing that I can say would justify using a table saw would be to cult long strip/sheet goods. But I can stop by my local metal supply house and they'll shear it for $5 per cut. Worth every dollar if you ask me.

 

[savarin]

I needed some 8mm x 40mm strip so I ripped up an old boat transom.
I've used a wood cutting blade on the table saw in the past but decided to get a neg rake ally saw.
WOW chalk and cheese.
Nowhere near the amount of vibration, no hassles sliding along the fence, no lifting or pushing, it cut very smoothly and cleanly (not in the surrounds, chips everywhere) just like cutting 12mm ply.



I managed to get 2x35mm strips, 2x40mm strips 1x50mm strip and 1x 22mm strip. that narrow curly bit was where I cut the weld off to even the width. The red marks are the measurements for the new transom so this one was in the bin. $0.00, my kind of price.

 

[Surprman]

I've cut some rod and bar stock on a 12in compound miter-saw. It does cut it a lot easier than attempting to use a saws-all with a metal blade (my only other option for cutting metal- boy I need to get a nice bandsaw!). I was cutting a 3 inch section from a 1foot piece of aluminum rod (2inches in diameter) using an 80 tooth carbide blade. It got almost all the way through and bound up, stopping the blade. Once I dislodged the part, I figured I would simply spin the rod around and finish the cut from the other side. Just after the cut was complete, the teeth of the blade grabbed the 3inch piece I cut off and spun it like a top. It shot across the room, hit my furnace and continued to spin for another full minute on the ground. I consider the compound miter saw to be one of the safest ways to cut anything nonferrous due to the limited travel of the blade. After that experience, there is no way in the world that I would cut metal on my table saw - which I consider one of more dangerous pieces of equipment I own. (I'm even somewhat reluctant to use the miter saw on aluminum after this.)

 

[Gary Ayres]

I have just started using my Evolution Rage circular saw (which is designed to cut through aluminium and steel as well as wood) clamped (tightly!) upside down in my Black and Decker Workmate portable workbench as a table saw. It cuts through either metal with frightening ease. On safety - yes, always an important factor. Having once been bitten by a table saw several years ago, I approach any saw with more respect now.

 

[xalky]

I've cut aluminum plate on a table saw. It's a little spooky. Full face shield, long sleeves, and hearing protection required. I've also used my miter saw to cut aluminum and thats a breeze and remarkably safe compared to a table saw. I've also used a skill saw with the right non-ferrous metal cutting blade and that was also pretty non eventful.

If your gonna do this, get the right blade. I've done it without the right blade, but it's definitely safer using the correct designated blade. I also use wd-40 for lube, it helps a lot.

I'm not a safety freak, but this is one case where a full face shield, long sleeves and hearing protection, are a must do. The chips are very hot and can cause you to flinch and get distracted easily without a some shielding on your person. The frequency of the noise can make even a deaf mans ears flutter.)

 

[Gary Ayres]

I've cut aluminum plate on a table saw. It's a little spooky. Full face shield, long sleeves, and hearing protection required. I've also used my miter saw to cut aluminum and thats a breeze and remarkably safe compared to a table saw. I've also used a skill saw with the right non-ferrous metal cutting blade and that was also pretty non eventful.

If your gonna do this, get the right blade. I've done it without the right blade, but it's definitely safer using the correct designated blade. I also use wd-40 for lube, it helps a lot.

I'm not a safety freak, but this is one case where a full face shield, long sleeves and hearing protection, are a must do. The chips are very hot and can cause you to flinch and get distracted easily without a some shielding on your person. The frequency of the noise can make even a deaf mans ears flutter.)

Totally agree with you, xalky. I'm not a safety freak either, but one has to be sensible. Aluminium is weird stuff to cut and as you say, the hot chips fly...

I seriously recommend the Evolution Rage multi purpose blade, which is designed to go through pretty much everything. See it here - that's the saw that I clamp in my workmate bench. Don't know if they are sold under the same name in the USA or not, but no doubt they are available everywhere, possibly under different badges. Don't know how it compares to the blades that some of you guys are using, butI have never had a saw like it for aluminium and steel. Not that expensive either. They also make mitre saws and table saws and I was beginning to regret buying what I felt was the wrong one until I thought of clamping it upside down. As you say though, a mitre saw would be ideal. Also probably safer, but IMHO the real safety issue is being sensible, awake and careful both in setting up and operating, whatever gear you are using.

 

[uncle harry]

Totally agree with you, xalky. I'm not a safety freak either, but one has to be sensible. Aluminium is weird stuff to cut and as you say, the hot chips fly...

I seriously recommend the Evolution Rage multi purpose blade, which is designed to go through pretty much everything. See it here - that's the saw that I clamp in my workmate bench. Don't know if they are sold under the same name in the USA or not, but no doubt they are available everywhere, possibly under different badges. Don't know how it compares to the blades that some of you guys are using, butI have never had a saw like it for aluminium and steel. Not that expensive either. They also make mitre saws and table saws and I was beginning to regret buying what I felt was the wrong one until I thought of clamping it upside down. As you say though, a mitre saw would be ideal. Also probably safer, but IMHO the real safety issue is being sensible, awake and careful both in setting up and operating, whatever gear you are using.

I just "Googled" the Evolution products. Many of their products are readily available in the US. Thanks for the info. Kind'a looks like I might 'need' one or two.