cutting aluminum and steel in a totally inexperienced newcomer's limited shop

[Walt]

Ok, This will be my first dumb question for the forum to laugh at, and hopefully will help me out with.

I'm about to embark on my first metal project with my micro-mill (LMS) and will hopefully end up as a carriage stop for my HF mini-lathe. I have a block of aluminum 6061 that is 1 1/4"x1 1/2" and about 7" long. The carriage stop is 1 1/2" x 1" with a slot cut out of it to fit over the back way of the lathe. Here is a link to what it looks like. http://littlemachineshop.com/Projects/CarriageStop.php

I'm assuming the slot is milled on the milling machine. My question is what can I use to cut the aluminum block down to the correct overall dimensions. I have an old chop saw and a metal cutting blade (never used) that looks like fiber, not a normal looking saw blade. I have a 12" bandsaw, but I really don't want to use that if possible. I guess I could use a hacksaw, but I want to get this project done in the next century, plus hand saws and I don't like each other. I also have a brand new tablesaw, that I really don't want to cut metal with if at all possible.

Please help me figure this out, and if you have any better suggestions for how to do this project (put it in terms a simpleton (me)) can understand. Also if you have any suggestions for a better type of carriage stop I could make, I'd love to hear about it please.

Thanks All for any help or suggestions you can give. Next I'll be working on building some lathe dogs....that really ought to be interesting!

Rick (mtgrizzly52)

I've been using my Makita meiter saw to cut chunks of 1" x 2" aluminum off of a 3' length of material. I use a thin kerf, carbide fine (cross)cut blade with plenty of WD-40, and it cuts very fast and leaves a nice finish. Obviously it's necessary to use a much slower feed rate than for wood! The only down side I'm seeing is the saw throws aluminum chips out a long distance from the saw, a band saw would probably not make as much of a mess. The blade seems to be holding it's edge very well.

Assuming your chop saw has a standard arbor on it you could try this with your machine. I'm certain this would be a bad idea with steel.

Walt

 

[clevinski]

My question is what can I use to cut the aluminum block down to the correct overall dimensions.

Rick (mtgrizzly52)

Rick,

I had to cut a 3 1/2 inch by 3 1/2 inch by 30 inch long aluminum block some months ago and cut it with a Saws-All and bi-metal blade. I have since purchased a Harbor Freight horizontal bandsaw, but using the Saws-All wasn't bad.

Good luck! I'm sure you'll work it out...

Charlie

 

[xalky]

I've used my table saw and my miter saw to cut aluminum. A fine tooth trim carbide blade and I use wd40 for lube. It works great. A face shield is recommended or at least some goggles.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[mtgrizzly52]

WOW!!! You all are awesome! Ok, for now, I like the suggestion of keeping the chunk of aluminum in one piece until the milling is done and then mill down part of the way to make the required cut and finish with a hacksaw. I'll also be looking into a bandsaw for cutting metal from HF.

Thanks so much for all of the advice, especially not using the metal cutting disk for aluminum. I was seriously considering that option.

When I get my carriage stop done, I'll post some pictures....if it turns out that is! *grin*

Rick (mtgrizzly52)

 

[SE18]

Another option for aluminum is a router. Harbor Freight sells a rheostat to slow down the speed. I believe I slower speed would work for alum. I've never done it myself but have heard from many who have.

I'm considering doing T slots in aluminum at some date in the future using a router. I believe the usual procedure is to run a straight bit through first, then use a T-bit. Otherwise, the T--bit is stressed somewhat.

Back to steel. When cutting my 1" thick steel, there were no chips flying off my tablesaw, just a bit of black powder. It only took a minute or two to do. It's good to start a light track with the first cut as the metal fibre cutoff wheel tends to stay in a groove so you want that first groove straight.