I did the best I could measuring from the original worn part. I came up with the threaded hole .500” from the dovetail bottom. The Dovetail is where the nut is held on the cross slide. I started with a block of bronze bar stock. Once it was machined to size I drilled and tapped the 7/16-10 thread. It is possible that this is where the tightness comes from. It is possible that the threaded hole is not exactly parallel with the mating surface. I indicated it to be less than .001 but maybe it isn’t god enough. As the nut is far out on the screw it moves smoothly. When the nut get close to where it is held in the cross slide it tightens up a bit. Honestly it is very slight and I’m just going to leave it. Hope this helps. Let me know if you want more info. RickI also have a Wade with similar problem. Can you answer a few questions about how you laid out the hole location in the new nut for the thread?
Peter
my original nut has approx 20 or 30 thou clearance between it and the track it rides in, so any out-of-parallel deviation in the hole is irrelevant. Up or down would make a difference close to the near side. The nut only needs to lock to the cross slide, not guide the cross slide- doesn't need to be snug in its track. I don't know how close a fit you ended up with, but perhaps a bit more clearance on the sides would eliminate the stiffness.It is possible that the threaded hole is not exactly parallel with the mating surface.
Yes, my first cut was way too tight on the sides. It is all clearance anyways. I did relieve material afterwards.my original nut has approx 20 or 30 thou clearance between it and the track it rides in, so any out-of-parallel deviation in the hole is irrelevant. Up or down would make a difference close to the near side. The nut only needs to lock to the cross slide, not guide the cross slide- doesn't need to be snug in its track. I don't know how close a fit you ended up with, but perhaps a bit more clearance on the sides would eliminate the stiffness.
Peter