Craftsman Bench Drill Press – Make and year?

You really want to be around 220-350 rpm for drilling larger holes in steel. You'll burn and dull drill bits more quickly if too fast.
Mark S.
 
You really want to be around 220-350 rpm for drilling larger holes in steel. You'll burn and dull drill bits more quickly if too fast.
Mark S.

Well, that was a brain dead moment on my part. Of course the 103 isn’t a tapered spindle.

Although this is still all in the planning, I see a need to drill larger holes ¾” in Durlon or phenolic material. So maybe I can neck a drill shank down to ½” and get by.

I think the 103 is priced right even in fair shape and part of this exercise is staying in budget.

As a newly retired guy, cash flow is king.

Thanks for your help and guiding hand,

From Ohio - Mike
 
OK. Then what you need to start looking for are (although they may be made by many different vendors) are Silver and Deming bits (after the name of the company that first made them). By default, they are all the same length as a jobber length 1/2" bit. All have either 1/2" dia. shanks, or that plus three flats ground on the shank so that they will not slip. Some are available from 33/64" to 1-1/2" in 1/64th increments. Less expensive sets have only 1/32" or 1/16" increments. Or if you only need say 3/4", you can buy just that.
 
OK. Then what you need to start looking for are (although they may be made by many different vendors) are Silver and Deming bits (after the name of the company that first made them). By default, they are all the same length as a jobber length 1/2" bit. All have either 1/2" dia. shanks, or that plus three flats ground on the shank so that they will not slip. Some are available from 33/64" to 1-1/2" in 1/64th increments. Less expensive sets have only 1/32" or 1/16" increments. Or if you only need say 3/4", you can buy just that.


The bench drill press is Craftsman 103.23131. What I found in the archive is a model year of 1955. It is younger than I am, but not by much. It runs well and looks to have all of the original parts. The table has several ‘oops-darn it’ drill divots. If you were to price the 103 by the pound, I think I did okay on the purchase. That doesn’t include the cost of the visit to the chiropractic to relieve the back strain from loading the thing in my truck.

I have also found a reference document for a ‘multi-speed attachment’ that I’m sure you all have knowledge of. The set of pulleys mid-way between the motor and spindle provides wider range of speeds with a lower low and higher high RPM. This drill does not have that, but it may be an option. My initial search found several online, albeit pricey. I’m not in any desperate need, buy I would like your feedback on that option if you have any.

This drill will work fine 'as is' for what I need for now.

I appreciate your assistance and thanks again,

From Ohio - Mike
 
What I found in the archive is a model year of 1955. It is younger than I am, but not by much. It runs well and looks to have all of the original parts............If you were to price the 103 by the pound, I think I did okay on the purchase. That doesn’t include the cost of the visit to the chiropractic to relieve the back strain from loading the thing in my truck.

Hopefully you're still running under original parts too!

I have also found a reference document for a ‘multi-speed attachment’ that I’m sure you all have knowledge of. The set of pulleys mid-way between the motor and spindle provides wider range of speeds with a lower low and higher high RPM. This drill does not have that, but it may be an option. My initial search found several online, albeit pricey. I’m not in any desperate need, buy I would like your feedback on that option if you have any.

Really that option is like my two links above to threads on adding a pulley. It does not need to be expensive. There's a bearing (or two) inside the new step pulley, a crank arm, and two short belts. A nice little project, and if you buy link belts you can be a little sloppy in the measurements too.

-brino
 
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