Craftsman/Atlas 6", what have I gotten my self into?

L1 and L2 are the Line wires. The switch connects them to both the run winding and the start circuit, which are in parallel.

Normally, if the run to the switch is relatively short, you should use the same size wire as the wires in the motor. If the internal wires are #16, then that would be adequate to the switch. But you would not want to use #18 or #20.
 
Yep, don't disagree with anything you said there. I guess I was thinking out loud, that those two two wires are pretty light but also very short. I'm not sure if adding 2' would create a need for a heavier wire or not.

What I should do is pop the back of the motor off and see if I can isolate & trace the terminals....

K
 
2' is a trivial amount, don't worry about that. The clicking means it is a cap start motor after all.
Yes you just swap the red and black with respect to their previous connection points to reverse. Piece of cake.
Mark S.
ps make L1 the hot line wire and L2 the neutral, then the drum switch opens the hot when off.
 
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Well...Here's an update.

I got my new QCTP from the Little Machine Shop. My lathe was missing tool holders and the lantern wasn't for my machine so it was either find used Atlas/Craftsman parts of go for the new stuff.

The good news is the it will make chips and the I really like what comes in the kit from LMS, the bad news is I can't get it cut a decent surface. I tried a lot of things. Pretty much every tool in the kit, some HHS that was already ground, speeds, feeds, every combo I could cook up. I could see the see the piece move a bit when the tool made contact with the steel so I snugged up the bushings a tad more which made things a bit better but I deiced to look the slop a bit more.

Turns out I seem to have quite a bit of play in the spindle. I put a indicator on the chuck and I'm getting .005" play up and down and .002" side to side. The up and down play takes very little effort to move, the back and forth I have to push firmly on the chuck. All that seems like a lot to me, especially measuring at the chuck. I kind of think this might be at the root of some of my issues, some of it could be the hardware store steel that I've heard doesn't machine well.

I did install new bushings, they're about as tight as I dare make them. There's a fine line between things turning and not. The spindle did have some wear, I was hoping it could be adjusted out.

Needless to say I'm pretty bummed. I may just buy some 12L14 to see how much of it's the steel. I knew this was an older machine with some wear and I really just want to learn but I was hoping for a bit better results. Obviously being new also factors in.

Oh and me lead screw had a dead spot in it. Man when it rains...

K
 
I would suggest that you start off practicing with aluminum. It is for example virtually impossible to get a decent finish on galvanized pipe except by sanding it.

What do you mean by "the lead screw had a dead spot in it"?
 
Sorry, I wrote that late and not in the best mood.

I'll get some aluminum and some 12L14, what's the best flavor of aluminum for people who have no clue like me? From what I've read the stuff I was trying to turn is probably A36 and not a good option.

The thread are worn near the head stock so the carriage just stops. It's hard to see by eye but they're really worn for about 2". I think this machine was used to thread a lot in it previous life. The back gear is worn pretty well and I had to replace a couple of other gears as they were worn pretty badly. I wouldn't mind replacing the screw with a better one but I want to see if this is a useable machine before I do anything else.

To add insult to injury there a Atlas 10D for sale close by that comes much better equipped then my 6" did and for just a little more then I paid for my 6". Then again the devil you know vs the devil you don't.

K
 
Bob,

Practically speaking, no. The right end of the lead screw is turned down for the right bearing. That would have to be cut off, the other end turned down, and the right bearing relocated to the left.

K,

I'm sure that there are others today but the sorta default alloy for parts that were to be machined and were not to be formed (bent) was 6061T6. It is or was available in both plate and bar.
 
kopeck said:
The threads are worn near the head stock so the carriage just stops. It's hard to see by eye but they're really worn for about 2".
K
Click to expand...

K,

Then it would appear that your only option is to source a replacement. And if you haven't already, replace the half-nuts or split nuts.
 
wa5cab said:
K,

Then it would appear that your only option is to source a replacement. And if you haven't already, replace the half-nuts or split nuts.
Click to expand...

Yep. There's a couple on ebay right now. I'm a little gun shy on spending more money on the machine at the moment though. I' worried about the spindle. Doesn't .006" deflection up and down seem like a lot? I know some deflection is going to be there simple because we're talking bronze bushing and that has to be some clearance.

L
 
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