Craftsman 101.28990 12" Metal Lathe - Refurb

[mickri]

My bushings and gears were the same. Stuck together. I originally thought that they were some how bonded together. Particularly the two 48 tooth gears. After soaking with PB Blaster and WD40 the bushing slid out. These gears are not very strong. Be careful trying to get the bushing out. If you should happen to break a gear the gears are available on Ebay.

If you need to cut metric threads you can replace the two 48 tooth gears with a 52 tooth and a 44 tooth gear. Or it might be a 54/42 gear combo. My memory fails me at times. There are articles in the documents about doing this. There are also threads that discuss making this modification. I did it to my lathe.

 

[rhjo51]

Thanks Mickri, looks like more soaking is in order. Thanks!

 

[kcoffield]

I checked ebay and there are some transverse gear cases there but pricey - half as much as I paid for the lathe and tooling!

Congrats on the purchase. That is a great buy for that lathe with tooling, even if it does need a little TLC. The broken traverse gear case is easily solved. You may have already removed it, but I noticed the locking clamp/bolt was missing on the carriage.

Thanks Mickri, looks like more soaking is in order. Thanks!

Not sure how long the lathe sat before you purchased it, but it's clear from the photos the previous owner didn't believe in oiling because it's very dry, thus why many things are stuck. I'd go to the manual lube chart and get oil everywhere it should be, but I'd be inclined to do some disassembly and cleaning if there is any rust because it's a abrasive. If you're not comfortable with that then penetrating fluid, and then lots of flushing to clear the debris, and lot's of oil afterward because all the penetrating fluid will dramatically dilute any new lube. Sounds like so far, it's the bull gear pin, the back gear engagement mechanism, and change gear bushings. I'd also buy new felts and wipers for the ways, and also wicks for the oiling cups. They're inexpensive and can collect crud, even though the previous owner may have never used them. This eBay seller sent a laminated oiling chart with my purchase.....which is pretty handy.

Felt Wiper Way Set Atlas Craftsman Metal Lathe 10 /12 Commercial USA FAST SHIP | eBay

Regular lubrication and maintenance will keep your Lathe in use for years. Here is list of Craftsman 12" lathes models known to fit and built by Atlas press Co. Highest Quality available so don’t miss out on a chance to pick up a set for your lathe.

www.ebay.com

Best,
Kelly

 

[rhjo51]

Not sure how long the lathe sat before you purchased it, but it's clear from the photos the previous owner didn't believe in oiling because it's very dry, thus why many things are stuck. I'd go to the manual lube chart and get oil everywhere it should be, but I'd be inclined to do some disassembly and cleaning if there is any rust because it's a abrasive. If you're not comfortable with that then penetrating fluid, and then lots of flushing to clear the debris, and lot's of oil afterward because all the penetrating fluid will dramatically dilute any new lube. Sounds like so far, it's the bull gear pin, the back gear engagement mechanism, and change gear bushings. I'd also buy new felts and wipers for the ways, and also wicks for the oiling cups. They're inexpensive and can collect crud, even though the previous owner may have never used them. This eBay seller sent a laminated oiling chart with my purchase.....which is pretty handy.

Unfortunately I don't have the history of the lathe, so who knows how long it sat. I'm guessing a long time. The PO got it to use for wood turning but never did. Came with wood turning rests and tools. Yes, very dry it is with little rust. As you suggested it needs a lot of oiling but I' not in a hurry to use it so I am dissasembling most of the components to clean and lube. I hope I can free up the bull gear pin and engagement without removing the head stock - we'll see. Great suggestions on the wipers and wicks - will do. Thanks for your help. - Jim

 

[rhjo51]

Congrats on the purchase. That is a great buy for that lathe with tooling, even if it does need a little TLC. The broken traverse gear case is easily solved. You may have already removed it, but I noticed the locking clamp/bolt was missing on the carriage.

You have a good eye! The locking clamp bolt was missing but should be easy to replace. Thanks

 

[kcoffield]

The PO got it to use for wood turning but never did.

That explains a lot. Wood and metal working machines don't play well together for just that reason.

Take care,
Kelly

 

[rhjo51]

I was able to free up the back gear lever and can now engage it or not. However I found that when not engaged, I can move the spindle by hand. When engaged (Not sure if I got this backward), I cannot move the spindle. It looks like the lock pin is frozen in the out position. I removed the set screw that is in the outside face of the bull gear and am soaking things. So, why does the spindle not moving when the back gears are engaged? Thank you - Jim

 

[mickri]

My best guess is that the back gear shaft is frozen. There is a plug directly under the spindle. It covers the end of the back gear shaft and is a lubrication point. The manual for your lathe states to clean with kerosene and then lubricate. Have you removed it and sprayed PB Blaster/WD40 on the shaft. No lube point on the other end that I know of other than on the top of the spindle shaft.

Look on page 15 of your manual. When you engage the back gears the back gears move up to engage the spindle gear and the bull gear. The back gears shaft has an inner shaft controlled by the back gear lever. Parts 59 and 61. I think that those two shafts are stuck together. There appears to be a hole in part 59 that may be a lube point for the inner shaft part 61.

 

[wa5cab]

The lubrication point for the back gears on the late Atlas/Craftsman 12" is through a ball detent oiler located under the chuck and spindle in the lower right face of the headstock. It should be covered (hidden) by a plated steel springy hole plug. The ball detent oiler requires a squirt can type oil pump (same as for the half-nut lever on the carriage apron) with a truncated conical tip..

I do believe that the direct drive pin in the side of the bull gear is in the OUT position. However, there are only two spots on the face of the bull gear where you can move the direct drive pin to the "In" or direct drive positions. Once you (if necessary) free up the pin, I strongly recommend that you mark the two spots on the pulley where the two holes are located. I marked the positions on my 3996 40 years ago, with a center punch.

However, you will find that it is close to impossible to rotate the spindle by hand if the back gears are engaged. Especially if the motor belt is tight. Because of the gear ratio (about 6:1) when you try to rotate the spindle with back gears engaged, you are trying to rotate the motor at several hundred or a few thousand RPM. Which you cannot easily do by hand.

What set screw did you remove? There is no set screw on the 12" as there is on the 6" for the spring and ball-end detent pin. Just an open hole, because the spring and pin go in the hole first. Then the direct drive pin.

 

[rhjo51]

The set screw I'm referring to is the one for the spindle back gear. Figure it would not hurt to get some oil in there. With the set screw out I can move the gear side to side a bit. The lock pin wont move. I can see that 180 degrees from the lock pin there is a hole between the back gear and the pulley in which I think is the "reverse lever plunger". that doesn't move either. Not sure what this plunger does. I did oil the back gears through that oil point down below. The back gear shaft is not frozen. If I cannot turn the spindle by hand when engaged maybe it's ok, but regardless, that lock pin wont move. Thanks