Cover hinges

I agree with give them time to soak. I will try to move parts and if I get alittle move I will respary them, and let them soak some more. If you look at the arbor prees I posted here this spring I found at the scrap yard it took a couple days to get everything apart. I am yet to try the acetone and ATF mix. A Harry did the article say who was best of the comercial penetraters?
 
It sounds counter-intuitive but on parts that will move a little I have had good luck with water instead of oil based products. Once it is loose, then dry and recoat with oil or WD40.
 
markknx said:
I agree with give them time to soak. I will try to move parts and if I get alittle move I will respary them, and let them soak some more. If you look at the arbor prees I posted here this spring I found at the scrap yard it took a couple days to get everything apart. I am yet to try the acetone and ATF mix. A Harry did the article say who was best of the comercial penetraters?
Click to expand...
Uncle Harry here: Sorry to say that I don't remember. I don't keep back issues of Farm Show, I usually give them to local friends who are more into cobbling and tinkering with farm stuff.
 
uncle harry said:
Uncle Harry here: Sorry to say that I don't remember. I don't keep back issues of Farm Show, I usually give them to local friends who are more into cobbling and tinkering with farm stuff.
Click to expand...
Uncle Harry here again:
HOLY HAND GRENADES BATMAN !, I searched the FARM SHOW Magazine & found the article. They were reporting on an article featured originally in MACHINIST WORKSHOP MAGAZINE who described a test on "scientifically" rusted nuts. The results were: Nothing: 516#, WD-40: 238#, PB Blaster: 214#, Liquid Wrench: 127#, Kano Kroil, 106# AND.....ATF-Acetone mix: 53#... a nearly 10:1 advantage. Kroil has the advantage of better VOC and inhalation health safety factors. Kroil is made by Kano Laboratories. WD-40 has a specific PENATRANT SPRAY product (not to be confused with the regular WD-40 that we've been relying on all these years)

FARM SHOW Magazine has archives online going back about 38 years. They allow 3 free searches before having to subscribe.

I already have a fresh gallon of acetone & it won't take much to gather up some ATF. Bring on Spring and the rust !
 
Last edited:
Try letting them soak overnight in brake fluid. Works like a charm for rusted bolts on cars.

Luis.
 
I have never in my life seen a penetrating oil that really penetrated once I got anything apart there is no evidence that the oil ever made it down there. If it does not come apart easy cut the pin support it correctly and drive or press it out. On cast iron or steel we would always heat it to a dull red and quench it in water the sudden rapid heat quench would break the rust bond and turn the rust into harmless carbon. I would not apply heat to aluminum it will do nothing but gall and then you will be in a world of hurt.. Ray
 
Gene:

Not sure if this is the same situation with your hinge pins, but I had a bunch of trouble separating the pin from between the castings of a Logan gear cover and hinge casting.

First, I used sanding cloth to clean any rust/paint/trash from the intermediate spaces on the pin between the castings. In order to avoid breaking off the casting "ears" I hand drilled the end of the pin and tapped it for a 1/4-20 screw. I then used oversized Belleville washers (ID larger than the pin) between the casting and oversize washers placed on the screw. If you stack up a few of those spring washers, it applies a nice even pressure to help pull out the pin as you turn the screw in to jack the pin out.

As previously stated, this may not be the same situation. Another down side is that it puts a threaded hole in the end of your pin and you may have to replace the pin.

Good luck.
 
Gene said:
Thanks to Sandy and Phil and a lot sweat the chuck finally gave up and came off.
Click to expand...

GLAD you got it off.

I was going to comment sometimes the lathes I would be assigned to the chuck had to be switch out. I used to use a 2"x 4" about 4' long. Insert it between the jaws and tighten, put the lathe in lowest gear and give it a hard jerk to loosen. If that didn't work then I would use a big ball-pien hammer and hit the board.
 
Thanks folks, I think I have enough Info to get it done. The covers attached to the mounts are off and put away until I can get to them. There Is about 4 inches of snow and I have to work outside.
 
The article on home made penetrating fluid was originally in the April/May 2007 edition of Machinists Workshop magazine. It was later mentioned in Farm Show. I have mixed up the 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone and it works well but you need to keep it in a tight container or the acetone wll evaporat off.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top