Countersink a hole to a specific dia. help

I have only done a couple of countersinks, but here is how I avoided all the math. I’m open to better methods.

Once you have your hole drilled or threaded, drop or thread your screw into the hole as far as it will go. Then lower the spindle to touch your countersink bit to the flat part of the top of the screw and zero the Z-axis readout. Then move over and touch the bit to the top of the work piece. Note the reading. Remove the screw from the hole and realign the bit directly over the hole. Now lower the bit until it touches the rim of the hole. The point of the bit will be below the work surface. Hold it there and zero the Z-axis readout. Now drill the countersink until the Z-axis readout matches what you noted earlier. The screw should now fit flush with the work surface.

Tom
 
If you want it clean you need a bit the same as the OD of the screw so you can counter bore the thickness of the top of the head if it has any meat on it.

We made a tool to countersink screw holes in the wood to of radial arm saw where we wanted the screws a bit under the top to insure no possible scratching.

Having the counter bore just looks better as it is a bit difficult to get the depth perfect.

Too deep with wider tool and you have a ring around the head and too shallow the head protrudes.

Counterbores avoid the ring and once the first one is depth stopped the rest are easy.


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Bloody hell pull the other one, a 90 Deg. chamfer is 45 per side or the diagonal of a square, one does not require trig to figure this out, other angles are no more difficult.
I believe the OP asked how do you calculate the depth of the countersink, given the major diameter and c'snk angle.

When we sent out drawings for machining we specified the major diameter and angle. That was the only practical and unambiguous way to specify that feature. It was up to the machinist to figure out how deep to go to achieve the spec.

For my own work, I will use a trial and error method as has been suggested by others. I have the specific fastener at hand and can set my parameters to achieve the fit that I want. Not so for someone working from a drawing.
 
For an 82 1/2 deg. counter sink the diameter X .571 is more then close enough.

.243 from the theoretical sharp point.

If in your case you touch the countersink off on the .375 hole edge the difference in diameters X .571 will yield the depth.

.425 - .375= .05
.05 X .571= .0285 depth which will be more then close enough for such work, the countersink itself will have a +- 2 Deg. tolerance or so.

A 90 Deg. countersink is of course.500 because it is a right triangle.
 
Thanks for the input. So I get the calculator now. But does this matter no matter the size of the countersink. Say I calculate .250 I need to go down, it doesn't matter if I use a 1/2 or 3/4 diameter countersink , I will always go that deep to reach the required diameter. Because thats what it asks for, diameter and included angle. Am I correct ?
 
Larger countersinks often are not sharp pointed, but flat, so you have to work off where they contact the existing drilled hole. Then comes a little math if you have a spec to meet, or a sample screw, which btw does not have a sharp edge at the top, so if you just measure the screw and cs to that, it will sit proud. You'll have to go deeper to get flush.
 
Thanks for the input. So I get the calculator now. But does this matter no matter the size of the countersink. Say I calculate .250 I need to go down, it doesn't matter if I use a 1/2 or 3/4 diameter countersink , I will always go that deep to reach the required diameter. Because thats what it asks for, diameter and included angle. Am I correct ?
Yes, the angle remains constant regardless of tool diameter.
As Tony Wells mentioned, finding the theoretical sharp point of a countersink is problematic, few such tools have sharp points. In the graphic representation shown below if you were to touch off the countersink at the sharp edge of the .375 hole then advance .029" in you would achieve your .425 diameter in a perfect world, we do not live in a perfect world however, any error in the tool, machine spindle and your ability to pick up a sharp edge will effect the finished size. The ratio .571 works for this angle only.

Included angle is both sides combined, in round (lathe) work excluding threading this is almost always true, a 60 Deg. V thread is two 30 Deg. angles in relation to one axis plane. A buttress thread may have an included angle of 50 Degrees, one being 45 and the other being 5

 
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Thanks guys I believe I understand it now. The calculator will really help me, but I have a better understanding of what needs to happen.
 
I just go deep enough that the head of the screw is .005 - .010 below the surface. That way any difference in other screws will still be below the surface. except when countersinking sheet metal then I just go deep enough the screw feels flush.
 
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