Coolant Upgrade 4x6 band saw

The wax tends to melt from the heat of the cut so on a long cut it is usual to reapply part way through. I use a chip brush on my saw and that knocks off any swarf or excess wax. Easy to brush wax and chips off the saw into a pan because they tend to clump. This is far easier to clean than coolant.
 
shotgun choker said:
Thanks for the opinions
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Well I guess none of us helped with your question very much. :D

A member I knew from another forum posted a little on his here, I haven't seen him here in a long time though. He made a new stand for his & added a coolant system.

You'll have to scroll through all the many pics to find the pics of his coolant system.

www.hobby-machinist.com

4x6 metal bandsaw stand/base and mods ...

I have had this HF 4x6 probably since 2007 or so. Right when I got it, I discarded the flimsy folding "legs", and made a wood base for it. I later added a hydraulic piston to replace the spring, and for the most part that has been it until last fall (2013). But now that I am starting to...
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Here's how the nozzle is mounted on my 7x12.
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A couple of examples how I've seen it mounted on other bandsaws.
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And while your at it, adding some type of brush to wipe away chips to help minimize build up on the drive wheel is a common mod on 4x6s.
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I have Noga-Flex arms (holding wire brushes) all over my HF 6x4, really does make a huge difference in blade life.

My upper wheel does not run true, so my blades snap well before they are worn every single time. Still deciding whether I will bore it true or just upgrade to the 7x12 and not be bothered.

Another thing I did with my 6x4 was put washers on either side of the guide bearings to keep the blade from jumping off. There was far too much lateral play there out of the box.
 
My little 5x5 Hafco, Taiwan. Dont know what equivalent you have in USA. It's a good little machine speed variable over a wide rang, so I use it for cutting all metals and also wood, mostly firewood very hard redgum. I have had some problems with the blade jumping off the wheels, They are cast iron, no rubber tyres, machined with a step at the back, the back edge of the blade runs up against the step.

I've checked the alignment and it all looks good. I did find that when I used cutting oil / coolant I had more problems with jumping off than when dry, I think it makes the wheels slippery and makes it easier to jump off.

Also when cutting wood I have to make sure that I clean all traces of fluid off the machine other wise I get a paste of fluid and sawdust which tends to clog everything and even build up on the wheels and can over tension a blade and break it. So I no longer use coolant.
 
38super said:
DZ, gonna look at the saw today. Hope there's room for your swarf brush idea.
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Oh, not my idea. My 7x12 came with the wire wheel stock. Just throwing the idea out there. ;)

But while on the subject of 4x6 mods, here's a couple that I did.

The very first thing I made when I got a mill of my own. Rails to hold a baking pan as a chip tray.
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Before that I used a cardboard box. :D
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Drilled/tapped one hole to relocate the fixed jaw to move it closer to the blade for short pieces & allow for more capacity. The dynamic jaw is slotted so there was no need to modify it.
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Here's what the jaws looked like stock.
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darkzero said:
Oh, not my idea. My 7x12 came with the wire wheel stock. Just throwing the idea out there. ;)

But while on the subject of 4x6 mods, here's a couple that I did.

The very first thing I made when I got a mill of my own. Rails to hold a baking pan as a chip tray.
View attachment 301218View attachment 301219View attachment 301220


Before that I used to use a cardboard box. :D
View attachment 301221


Drilled/tapped one hole to relocate the fixed jaw to move it closer to the blade for short pieces & allow for more capacity. The dynamic jaw is slotted so there was no need to modify it.
View attachment 301222


Here's what the jaws looked like stock.
View attachment 301223
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Nice job!!
 
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