Connecting 123 blocks

How is this solution any better than just using the 11 hole 1-2-3 blocks. I got a set of B&S 11 hole blocks on eBay for $50. You can bolt them together any way you like. Shars has a set for $23, but I don’t think the bolts are included image.jpg
 
fcs said:
How is this solution any better than just using the 11 hole 1-2-3 blocks. I got a set of B&S 11 hole blocks on eBay for $50. You can bolt them together any way you like. Shars has a set for $23, but I don’t think the bolts are included View attachment 419003
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The kit allows multiple ways to connect any 123 blocks, even the $13 ones I got from All Industrial back in June when they had their sale on Noga Indicator Bases, and using 23 hole blocks creates more ways to arrange the blocks than would be possible with the 11 hole blocks.

[edit] I just checked: the kit also works with 25-50-75 (metric) blocks.
 
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@fcs , nothing makes it better. The best solution is the one that works for you. Still, I like anything that allows the attachment bolts to be sub-surface - so the bolt heads don't get in the way of other blocks. Yours also looks like it would work extremely well.
 
Batmanacw said:
I stole this idea from someone on YouTube. Not sure who.

This little project was pretty easy buy I managed to make it hard..... I eyeballed the hole pattern in the 3" side of my Brown & Sharpe 123 blocks at 9/16" with a rule......first mistake. After I made the first bar I found out these 123 blocks have a 14mm hole spacing. Gauge pins to the rescue! I made a second one and it fit perfect.

My second mistake was assuming the hole pattern would be the same on the 2" end.....it was 14.7mm.

Both mistakes were very easily avoided just finding two tight fitting gauge pins, measuring across them and subtracting half of the width of both pins.

I used 8-32 x 1.25" socket head cap screws so the head of the screw fit easily inside the holes in the block. I cut a pocket for the cap screw head to sit flat in the clearance holes of the drilled through bar.

I used 0.3" mystery stainless rod to make the cross bars.

I made it to take a screw in each hole so the clamping is tight with minimal tightening force.

A slot in the end of the rod helps orient the threaded holes.

I really like how they work.

View attachment 418798

View attachment 418799


The holes in the blocks are not properly cleaned out. I haven't figured out how to clean out the burrs yet.
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I think this might work too. https://www.bing.com/images/search?...ndex=0&idpp=overlayview&ajaxhist=0&ajaxserp=0
 
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