Sounds like you have a good pump, why wish to bury it? My current compressor passes almost no oil but I’ve had ones in the past that would bleed a considerable amount.
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500 hours on reciprocating air compressors between changes with a regular petroleum based 30 weight oil (Ingersol Rands do better on 40 weight, in fact I think they call it out)
I fill all of my customers pumps with synthetic oil though, I use Ultrachem lubricants for recip, screw and vane compressors and vacuum pumps - 2000 hours minimum, with some of the lubes I use being good for 8000 hours......Synthetic work better in our temps here in summer
37 years in the air & vacuum industry here and in Europe and counting
I fill all of my customers pumps with synthetic oil though, I use Ultrachem lubricants for recip, screw and vane compressors and vacuum pumps - 2000 hours minimum, with some of the lubes I use being good for 8000 hours......Synthetic work better in our temps here in summer
37 years in the air & vacuum industry here and in Europe and counting
The best way to accomplish this is no oil at all.
But your compressor will be worth more on the used market if it continues to perform well. Usually oil (even good oil) is not expensive relative to the cost of machine failure so for regular heavy use where the compressor gets HOT, I vote for good synthetic oil.
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Hukshawn
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Its a cheap pump. A princess auto pump. And onrmof the heads needs to be rebuilt. The reeds arent working properly. It puffs back out the filter, not a lot, but enough.
I got the sae 30 non detergent.
I'm just tired of always having had small pumps. I originally bought a big ass Brunner pump on this tank and motor but traded it for this pump because the Brunner needed to be totally rebuilt. The valves were shot... I should have kept it
I got the sae 30 non detergent.
I'm just tired of always having had small pumps. I originally bought a big ass Brunner pump on this tank and motor but traded it for this pump because the Brunner needed to be totally rebuilt. The valves were shot... I should have kept it
When I had my Compressor repair shop I always used Mobil RAUS 827 synthetic ISO100. NEVER saw a lubrication related failure. My customers ran their machines 8 hrs a day 5 days a week. Small machines in the home construction industry, I was able to give them more reliable consistent operation with this oil. After 2 months operation the oil looked like new, but I changed it anyway.
fixit
It depends to some degree on the compressor and usage, rotary compressors generally run best with a low foaming oil and synthetics will give longer life.
Small shop compressors that don't get worked too hard, just about any SAE 30 oil will do. Most auto oils are fairly high in detergent, but not really required in air compressors, although it won't hurt them.
Multi stage high pressure compressors are more demanding in that they can be prone to carbonising the oil particularly around the interstage valves. I've also seen intercoolers choked with carbon, so an oil that resists carbonising is handy, think synthetic if this is your problem.
High ambient temperatures and high humidity make life hard for air compressors.
Small shop compressors change oil once a year, larger compressors, follow manufacturers recommended, use hour meter.
Small shop compressors that don't get worked too hard, just about any SAE 30 oil will do. Most auto oils are fairly high in detergent, but not really required in air compressors, although it won't hurt them.
Multi stage high pressure compressors are more demanding in that they can be prone to carbonising the oil particularly around the interstage valves. I've also seen intercoolers choked with carbon, so an oil that resists carbonising is handy, think synthetic if this is your problem.
High ambient temperatures and high humidity make life hard for air compressors.
Small shop compressors change oil once a year, larger compressors, follow manufacturers recommended, use hour meter.