Compound gib issue

How about rotating the compound 20 degree's so we can see where the set screws are located to the gib. It's possible the factory screwed up and drilled the holes to high in the casting. You may have to drill and tap new holes lower down so it hits in the middle. Many times lathes have a pin the diameter of the hole and approx 1/2" long in front of the set screw and the end that pushes against the gib are rounded so the gib will rotate and fit the angle of the way. How about taking it apart too and show us all of the compound top and bottom so I can advise you on the ways. Is it an Asian made machine? If we knew the brand name and model number we might be able to find a drawing online and not have to guess. As the title says I am a professional machine rebuilder and will do my best to help you.
 
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The set screw holes are about 7/32 from the bottom surface. It looks like they are too high because the gib dimples are at the top of the gib. The gib dimples are kind of jacked up. The set screws have flat bottoms.

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you need to let me see the piece apart or turned 20 degrees' so I can see where the tapped holes are coming thru the other side and see the nuts on the outside. looks like you need to drill tap smaller screws lower and as I said use round headed pins in front of the sets screws. Did you buy it new or used and it was like that ?

Here is a Greezly that is on here and it has pins in the gib.
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...t-compound-mod.67600/#lg=thread-67600&slide=7
 
Richard,

I don't know why it is painted red instead of gray but it's an Atlas or Atlas-Craftsman 12" Commercial. If you go back to his first photo on Post #7, you can pretty clearly see the rear gib screw and jam nut. The gib screws are supposed the be flat on the front ends and the flat-bottom holes or slots cut at 30 deg into the side of the gib should be flat bottomed. It is difficult to tell from the photo of the gib what the condition of the bottom of the holes actually is.

Dan, the factory drawing for the 10-304 Gib is in Downloads but you don't have access to Downloads. If you wish, PM me your email address and I will send it to you for comparison to your existing gib.
 
Whoever owned my machine was not kind to it. The cross slide and compound are red, the saddle white, tailstock yellow and the rest is flaking grey. Broken screws, missing cross slide gib, broken levers. Will be interesting to see how well it cuts once I fix a few things.
 
OK. I found this on you tube. I know Nelson doesn't like us to link to them but you can cut and paste this to the search box.

"shop tips Craftsman 12" Commercial lathe compound".

It appears the gib that are in the show are at top tpp and I was mistaken about the pins. It only had dog point set screws. Post 9 showing the gib it looks like the center hole is buggered up and the gib was to low when the gib screw was installed and it had to have been over tightened to bugger the gin up. So best to file the buggered gib and as the YT show says is aligned with a ice pic and look in with a flash light. If the gib is factory then the adjustment on the flat spots on back of gib should pressure the gib in center.

Try this and then let us know. Rich
 
As I wrote earlier, removing the compound from the cross slide and inverting it on the work bench is a trivial exercise and prevents damaging the angled holes. Unfortunately doing that isn't practical with the cross slide gib but there is no excuse not to do it for the compound.
 
Dan,

Does your machine still have the nameplate affixed to the right end of the bed? If so, please give the Model and Serial Number. If it doesn't still have its nameplate, does it have on it anywhere either a plate or a decal that says either Atlas or Craftsman?
 
Yes I also advise people not familiar with install to flip it over in a vise. GMTA. :)
 
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