Completely dickered 12X36 spindle, options?

MW,

I think that you have probably already spent more time fiddling with what was a ruined spindle when you started than was prudent. I wouldn't waste any more time on it. It shouldn't be hard to find a replacement. Atlas made the same 10-31T 1-1/2"-8 thread spindle for Timken tapered roller bearings from about 1935 through March, 1981.

As far as bending a spindle goes, the only valid bent-spindle reports that I have ever seen on any of these lists have been the little 0.550" diameter with a 1/4" diameter through hole spindles used in the AA 6" lathes sold by Sears in the 1940's and 1950's.

We do not know what material Atlas used in the 10-31T. As it is still available from Clausing, they won't give out the drawing.
 
Okay, thanks for the help, you all have very valid points. I often trip over a dollar to pick up a penny, but this is my hobby, and I enjoy this kind of thing, as I'm sure, some here know what i mean, I could absolutely go out and buy a new spindle or even a perfectly functioning machine, but my mind just refuses to let me do those things, I get a sense of accomplishment when my cobbled together project or idea turns out well. Also, restoring something that you are using to learn is a great way to learn something. In my mind. Except when something like a tweaked spindle makes you chase your tail for days.
However I don't believe my spindle is "bent" in the general sense, but must be warped from boring due to possible internal stresses? all I know is that it was not right. Nothing added up correctly and learning that it had been bored made me think this. I'll grab one off eBay and see how it goes, maybe play around with the current spindle while it's on its way.
One more thing, are the 10 and 12" spindles the same part? And are they same for Babbitt and timken models? I'd assume this would not be ideal due to possible wear on the bearing journals
 
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If the spindle has enough meat to it, the MT4 to MT3 insert idea sounds like a fun fix to me. I would attempt it if only out of curiosity.
Or would an MT3 to MT2 sleeve be thick enough once bored out?
 
I may still try, just to see if I can! I also have a mt3 finish reamer on the way, we'll see how good the ol' ussr made them..
 
One more question, I recall when I had the machine apart to clean, that the bearing nearest the chuck did not want to come off the spindle, I may need to get it off to reuse when my new spindle shows up, probably since the new spindle comes with just the bearing but not the outer race, not sure if I can swap one but not the other or if the bearing and races should be kept together.. or even if the bearing that comes on the new(used) spindle is any good.
 
The large cone is a light press fit on the spindle. Theoretically, cups and cones are interchangable. But as you have no way of knowing what the cone on the replacement spindle has been subjected to, I would replace both.

Remove the spindle with a piece of pipe or tubing bored to be a slip fit over the flange near the threads. Length should be sufficient to press the old cone past the first diameter change in the spindle You will need a smaller bore tube to install the new cone. In both cases, use a press, not a hammer.
 
Thanks wa5cab, and thanks for all you do on this forum, I have spent many hours over many days learning about these machines by reading the posts that you have written, as well as others, but when it comes to a specific question about these machines it would seem you really know your way around them.
 
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