Community Build 1 SOSE

Great to see an update.

An update from my end.....
Good news and bad news.

Bad news,
Gonna be another week pushed back.

Good news,
This is because I've been promoted and will be away from home for another week.
 
Congrats on the promotion! :thumbzup:

Right now I'm debating (with myself) as to whether I should a) ream out the entire length of the piece before parting slices off, b) part the slices off and ream individual "donuts" (would have to figure out how to chuck them up), or c) get a very small boring bar to make the inner diameter as perfect as possible and "bore and part" then repeat. I'm also considering what would be the most efficient way to bevel the edges as well as how much and when to polish.

Open to suggestions (concerning the build anyway, shame on you :biggrin:),

-Ron
 
Ron,
The way I would do it (just me) is part the pieces off then drill and ream. But before I part off I would break the outer O.D. corner with a file or tool bit then start the parting and before going thru break the other corner with a file. I would then make a fixture on the drill press or mill for drilling both holes, big ones first then small ones. Face off the next piece then repeat. I do think that drilling hole first then parting will get some burrs at the hole. Hand lap on stone with some oil will clean it up when done. I have machined the I.D. of washers on the lathe with good results, but drilling and reaming that way I don't think will work, but I did not ever try it. Remember that the holes are for a press fit for 1/8 and 1/4 rod. That's my 2 cents worth.
Paul
 
Ron,
The way I would do it (just me) is part the pieces off then drill and ream. But before I part off I would break the outer O.D. corner with a file or tool bit then start the parting and before going thru break the other corner with a file. I would then make a fixture on the drill press or mill for drilling both holes, big ones first then small ones. Face off the next piece then repeat. I do think that drilling hole first then parting will get some burrs at the hole. Hand lap on stone with some oil will clean it up when done. I have machined the I.D. of washers on the lathe with good results, but drilling and reaming that way I don't think will work, but I did not ever try it. Remember that the holes are for a press fit for 1/8 and 1/4 rod. That's my 2 cents worth.
Paul

Sounds like a good way to do it Paul, except for the drilling part at least cause it's already done, the center hole sorta, anyway :eek:. When I drilled it out (and it came out very well if I do say so myself) I drilled it undersize so that I could either ream it or bore it to the proper diameter and maybe fix any flaws that I may have created. I did constantly pulled the drill out to clear the swarf so there would be less chance of pitting or galling. We'll see if that did the job when I start cutting the discs off.

I am planning on making a fixture-jig for drilling the smaller hole and I think your right that each disc should be parted off before doing any more to the center hole as that will give me a chance to look at each individual "bore" and cover up any "boo-boos" :biggrin: if needed. Using a file to on the outer corners as I part them off hadn't occurred to me (new at this :p)- great idea, thanks. I'll be using that one.

-Ron
 
Another update and another question. :cool:

I parted off the first crank disc. Oh, and the pocket lint. Please ignore all the pocket lint. :eek:
My question is, when parting off, how do you accurately place the cutoff blade at a certain thickness? Say I have 4" of round part sticking out of the chuck but I only want to part it off in 1/4" thicknesses plus maybe a couple .001" for fudge factor to be sanded/polished down to spec. How would you go about setting the cutoff tool? I ask because the method I used was fairly awkward and resulted in it being .014" too thick. (This one is MINE and is "practice" for doing the good ones for you guys. :biggrin:)

Thanks,

-Ron
 
Ron,
Just put that one back in the lathe and take a face cut on it and see how much you need to clean it up and go from there. Take a face cut on the next piece then part it off using the first finished piece as a guide for parting off the next one in the chuck. I hope that is clear. That's one way and of course there are many ways to skin a cat.
Paul

ps: If you have a dial caliber you could use the male end that sticks out to measure from the end of the bar to the cutter plus a few thousands for facing.
 
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Using a 1" or greater dial indicator to show carriage travel in the Z axis, touch off the face, zero the indicator, then move the width of the part plus the width of the partoff tool. Should get you pretty close.
 
Ron,
Just put that one back in the lathe and take a face cut on it and see how much you need to clean it up and go from there. Take a face cut on the next piece then part it off using the first finished piece as a guide for parting off the next one in the chuck. I hope that is clear. That's one way and of course there are many ways to skin a cat.
Paul

ps: If you have a dial caliber you could use the male end that sticks out to measure from the end of the bar to the cutter plus a few thousands for facing.

Use the "first" one as a pattern. Makes sense and quick. I use that method when I'm cutting lengths of wood, hadn't thought to apply it here.

Using a 1" or greater dial indicator to show carriage travel in the Z axis, touch off the face, zero the indicator, then move the width of the part plus the width of the partoff tool. Should get you pretty close.

The dial caliber, of course! That will work! Just too dense to come up with these on my own but I'm still in unfamiliar territory too. :biggrin:

Thanks much Paul and Tony, it's answers like these that will bring me up to speed in no time, or at least cause me to ask different questions. :p

-Ron
 
Ron,
I too am playing catch up since I have not worked in a machine shop for quite awhile. Now that I retired and have some machines I am getting better at it. I did work with machine shops quite abit designing tooling and machine mods so it is just the hands on work that I have to get used too again. I want to start making gears, but the only gears that I have made were on a automatic gear making machine, so I will have to learn how using a mill and rotary table will work as this is what I have so far, and still buying some tools as I need them.
Paul

ps: If you need help just ask if you have trouble facing off those cranks, I have a neat way of doing them.
 
ps: If you need help just ask if you have trouble facing off those cranks, I have a neat way of doing them.


oooh, do tell, do tell!

It may just help others for other stuff too!:biggrin:
 
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