Coaxial Indicator - First Job

[matthewsx]

Oh boy, I have a job that needs this tool. Now I have to order one. Good to hear the Shars will do the job....

John

 

[ErichKeane]

Just curious.. For those of us with DRO, I've used it a couple of times to center X in a bore, then go to X0 and center Y, all with an edge finder. It seems to work well for the basic stuff I've done it on. I can then put a pin in the collet and it moves through the bore well. I compared it to a DTI on an arm and was within .002", which is plenty for those projects. Perhaps not as fast as a coax. And if I use a tenths indicator I can get it really close, but I don't often need that level of accuracy. I feel like I have to be missing something with these.

I have a DRO and have used that before, and typically do unless i have a good use for the coax-indicator. I suspect they are within reason of the same accuracy? DRO is perhaps a little faster, but the coax indicator is more fun It also works in situations where the edge-finder in the DRO wouldn't work. Cases like, "centering on a shoulder behind some threads", or a hole where the edge-finder won't reach.

Though, I guess you could use a wiggler-tip for both of those, so *shrug*.

 

[Charles scozzari]

Oh boy, I have a job that needs this tool. Now I have to order one. Good to hear the Shars will do the job....

John

It's a gotta have tool.

Oh boy, I have a job that needs this tool. Now I have to order one. Good to hear the Shars will do the job....

John

Makes life a lot easier not to mention on the money.

 

[C-Bag]

I have a DRO, TI, DI, and still needed the coax. For me it’s so quick and easy, almost as fast as an edge finder. I think I got mine from LMS on sale. I know it wasn’t over $80 and worth every penny for those special setups.

 

[Provincial]

I found a import model at the Restore for $1.00. It only had one arm, and the rod (handle) was missing. The needle didn't move, either.

I took it home and while watching TV I dismantled it enough to see the gear train inside. After loosening the screws holding the gear train, and fiddling with things, the gears freed up and it works like new, with full travel.

I'm not concerned about accuracy of travel, since for centering I'm only interested in the amount of deflection. It does seem to be pretty accurate in terms of measuring travel, but I haven't bothered to check it.

 

[Larry$]

I've got an import version. I stripped a screw in the part that holds the moving tip. Made a new part with more threads and it has worked well for several years. It came with an assortment of tips. I put the rotational stop arm in and something to act as a stop so I can use one hand on X and the other on Y table adjustments. Run the spindle at slow speed. Very quick to center. Zero the DRO. How accurate? I don't know. Close enough for most work. By moving the spindle up & down while it is running you can tell if the hole is tilted. Even tell by how much and which way by the difference in DRO readings. Shift between ABS & INC. Use the DRO Z-axis and a quick bit of trig for a pretty good answer. If it matters then you can shim the part or use jack screws.

 

[ErichKeane]

I've got an import version. I stripped a screw in the part that holds the moving tip. Made a new part with more threads and it has worked well for several years. It came with an assortment of tips. I put the rotational stop arm in and something to act as a stop so I can use one hand on X and the other on Y table adjustments. Run the spindle at slow speed. Very quick to center. Zero the DRO. How accurate? I don't know. Close enough for most work. By moving the spindle up & down while it is running you can tell if the hole is tilted. Even tell by how much and which way by the difference in DRO readings. Shift between ABS & INC. Use the DRO Z-axis and a quick bit of trig for a pretty good answer. If it matters then you can shim the part or use jack screws.

I use an old-style mag base with the solid straight-up arm for my 'stop', and it works perfect Otherwise, I have the same experience as you.

 

[epanzella]

I was pretty high off the table so I used a hunk of 3/8 x 16 all-thread and the t-nuts from my clamping set as a stop for the Co-ax indicator. (post #1)