CO2/Argon 5%, 10%, 15% ?? When? Why?

Honestly, I have Ceriated, Lathanated, and Purple tungsten and I can't really tell the difference on anything! The new Purple tungsten is supposed to be multipurpose. I'm sure a professional could tell the difference, but for the hobbyist I would take G-Mans advice. I almost always run a 1/16" electrode but I rarely weld north of 150A. I have yet to melt a tungsten. Gas cups are also not critical and somewhat dependent on the geometry you are welding.
Robert
 
I almost always use 3/32 tungsten. I also have switched to CK wedge collets. One of the best things I have done. The split collets are terrible.
 
Graham,
I am new here but one thing I would caution you on: check your regulator. My new Hobart welder came with a regulator labeled for Ar/CO2 ONLY.

Corey
I read that different than you. To me, it means it is to be used with Argon or CO2 only, not helium or whatever else. I don't read that as being for an Ar and CO2 mix only. That would make no sense.
 
Honestly, I have Ceriated, Lathanated, and Purple tungsten and I can't really tell the difference on anything! The new Purple tungsten is supposed to be multipurpose. I'm sure a professional could tell the difference, but for the hobbyist I would take G-Mans advice. I almost always run a 1/16" electrode but I rarely weld north of 150A. I have yet to melt a tungsten. Gas cups are also not critical and somewhat dependent on the geometry you are welding.
Robert

I've used the new tri-blend tungstens (some are purple and some lime green) enough that I don't think anybody can see a difference on them for steel or stainless. On aluminum they seem to very slightly hold a point better than 2% lanthanated, but it's a really minor difference and certainly not worth the price difference.

I've also tried a lot of different brands and found that Midwest Tungsten Service (sells on both eBay and Amazon) are probably the best bang for the buck going. Nobody makes tungstens in the U.S. now, so they all come from China with a handful being made in Germany and Austria (at much higher prices). I've used quite a few packs from MTS so far and the quality seems consistent, and they have tons of feedback on eBay and Amazon that echoes what I've experienced.
 
7miles-I will have to try those collets. I have had issues with the splits.
I think Graham is interpreting the label correctly. I doubt you could use the same regulator for pure Ar and pure CO2. Their viscosities differ considerably. It is labeled for a MIG blend.
Robert

EDIT:
Maybe I misunderstand? I was thinking about the Flow meter side.
R
 
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Thanks for the tip. I will be looking for non-split collets. The link place pops up a warning they only ship to UK on orders over $135, and come to that, the import requirements since 1st January may be new.

My welder (from Poland) at first got returned to the supplier, who promptly messaged me that they were going to try again, with new paperwork. It has arrived now, and from my first lookings, it is a super machine. Very "German" looking.

The instructions say that the TIG torch must be a TIG 17V type with s gas valve at the handle. Being a TIG newbie, I am guessing that that is a hand version of flow control that is also done by foot pedal control in some systems. I really have no idea.

The gas bottle I have right now happens to be 5%CO2 with 95% Argon, intended for MIG. To begin, I have quite a lot to play with in welding up the 40mm (about 1.5") steel angle sections, and I expect I will be OK with the supplied 0.8mm (0.03") wire.

My eye is on TIG for welding the type 201 stainless steel tray for my lathe. It's to be made of two 60cm x 40cm food industry trays joined together. They look about 1.6mm thick. Like doing car bodies, I suppose it could be done with MIG as a series of short little dabs, and then grind back the inevitable splodges, but here is where I thought to use TIG, with a 308 stainless filler, which is supposedly good for joining austenitic stainless of the same type. There is the choice also of 316 filler with a tad more silicon, supposedly good for welding 201 also. You can bet I will be trying it out on the off-cuts first!

So, for all this, I have to put together the gas tube and connection to the welder, the handle (air cooled?), and the most likely useful collection of little parts (as per your link). I suppose I will have to invest in a second bottle deposit for the pure Argon, which then makes possible a Frankenmixer as suggested by @General Zod earlier. That would be for the future.

I see in your link https://weldfabulous.com/welding-supplies/tig-welding/tig-consumables/ there are various "Gas Saver Kits" like this one with a Pyrex Cup.
Gas Saver Kit.jpg
That one listed at $38.99
I take it the mesh thing at lower left is one of those "gas lenses" that apparently make a smooth gas flow straight down.

Then there is the little tube with the sloped exit.
Collet Wedge Gas Saver.jpg

We have two things competing for the name "Gas Lens". Both are 3/32"

3-32 Gas Lens1.jpg3-32 Gas Lens2.jpg
Prices are $11.69 for the left side .. .. and $22.42 for the one on the right

The variety of designs (and prices) from every vendor and his dog seem infinite. A whole cluster of tiny bits and pieces, and I haven't yet got to the sharp pointy tungsten bits, available in all angles and diameters, and some folks grind them to their own preference.

Sure - I am happy to go with the starter recommended default. Right now, it's still a little hard to see which that is!
 
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I agree on the split collet from CK. I use them at work everyday. We usually run pretty hot on one of our stations, usually at 175 amps. You will fry a split collet in a jiffy. They will be twisted up in a day. The wedge collet will last for weeks.

Joe
 
7miles-I will have to try those collets. I have had issues with the splits.
I think Graham is interpreting the label correctly. I doubt you could use the same regulator for pure Ar and pure CO2. Their viscosities differ considerably. It is labeled for a MIG blend.
Robert

EDIT:
Maybe I misunderstand? I was thinking about the Flow meter side.
R
When I used Argon before, in a vacuum furnace, was where I first came across the need to have the gas regulator be correct for the gas density. The regulators are much the same, near identical looking, but the difference is in the calibration. I recall that they even had a "conversion graph" to allow to use the "wrong" regulator, and get to the "adjusted" reading for the different gas.

I don't know what is involved in adjusting the calibration, but I got the impression it had to be reasonably easy, because the supplier seemed able to do it on fast turnaround.
 
They are overcharging for shipping. $10 for an envelope with 5 tiny collets?
What is the difference between the "gas saver" and the regular?
Robert
 
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