CNC Vise - My Version

Tom,
I apologize completely if you feel slighted. Not my intention whatsoever. Sounds like my attempt to heap scorn on folks who buy in to techno marketing methods fell flat.

You do good work, and I appreciate your sharing that work here. Please keep it up.
-Ralph
 
No one bashed the poster only people whom are easily swayed by techno babel and marketing hype.

You don't perchance play golf do you?

I suggest you go to another forum where negative comments are welcome.
 
just while looking through the OP (lovely work by the way) I started thinking about making a set of soft jaws for my mill vise with a set of O1 hardened "mitee-bite" style clamps for holding thin work. Not a priority project, but it would be neat to do and give me a bit more confidence holding work by the very edge - thin stuff or projects where I need to mill the outside almost to the bottom. I'll add this to my "cogitate while commuting" list, thanks :)
 
My comments had nothing whatsoever to do with your fine post, Tom. It was all about Madison Avenue and the machining equivalent. Being that it seems to have pulled the post off topic, I regret my posting and extend my sincere hope to get the post back on track.
 
My comments had nothing whatsoever to do with your fine post, Tom. It was all about Madison Avenue and the machining equivalent. Being that it seems to have pulled the post off topic, I regret my posting and extend my sincere hope to get the post back on track.

Bob - what got me going was my thread was hijacked and used to further someone else's agenda. I'm always open to different views and criticism when it relates to the subject matter of the original post. I respect you and Spumco for responding in the way you did. It speaks volumes to your character. Let's move on.
 
In the Kurt vise the cnc version is missing the drain-back channels that a manual machine user would want to make the coolant find it's way back into the slots.
Your's has no drain channels so it's a cnc vise.
 
I've been thinking about making one of these too. I have a 4th axis with trunnion table so duplicating the SMW design with the tapered top and matching clamp bar for the movable jaw woudn't be too hard.

But since I'm lazy, I'm thinking that a simple 3D tool path machined from the top (part held flat) would result in scallops. But...

A small finishing stepover at fairly high speed (so it doesn't take forever) might result in better holding power. Or at least not worse. And save some serious setup time, especially if somone didn't have a 4th axis.

Moveable jaw:
1. Deck the bottom and profile the sides - flip.
2. Do the top drilling and slotting, and then cut down the tapered section (flat in Tom's version) using a 3D adaptive. Finishing pass with a bullnose with about a 0.015" stepover.
3. Bolt to an angle plate, indicate the jaw 'face' and drill-slot-whatever for the parallels.

Critique?
 
I've been thinking about making one of these too. I have a 4th axis with trunnion table so duplicating the SMW design with the tapered top and matching clamp bar for the movable jaw woudn't be too hard.

But since I'm lazy, I'm thinking that a simple 3D tool path machined from the top (part held flat) would result in scallops. But...

A small finishing stepover at fairly high speed (so it doesn't take forever) might result in better holding power. Or at least not worse. And save some serious setup time, especially if somone didn't have a 4th axis.

Moveable jaw:
1. Deck the bottom and profile the sides - flip.
2. Do the top drilling and slotting, and then cut down the tapered section (flat in Tom's version) using a 3D adaptive. Finishing pass with a bullnose with about a 0.015" stepover.
3. Bolt to an angle plate, indicate the jaw 'face' and drill-slot-whatever for the parallels.

Critique?

I'm not familiar with 4th axis code but couldn't you use your trunnion table to do steps 2 and 3?
 
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