Cleaning up an old milling machine

[ML_Woy]

This weekend I took delivery of my first milling machine. Rather old and dirty, not is to bad of shape, paint worn off and a few broken parts like all old equipment. Now comes the task of cleaning it up, checking it out and figuring out how to make the missing parts. This forum has posted many beautiful pictures of past restorations of some pretty dilapidated equipment in the past which has been brought back to better than show room condition. My goal with this machine is to get it functioning and maybe a new coat of paint so it looks respectable. But before paint can be applied it must be cleaned, I do not plan on completely disassembling the machine because of the shear size of its bulk and weight. I do want to clean all movable surfaces of old grease and grime, check all oil passages for clogs, change all of the fluids, get it wired and then check it for its' accuracy before entering into any serious dis-assembly if necessary.

My question is "What is the best way to clean the machine?". I thought of using the power washer while I have the machine outside to remove old grease and oil and any loose paint. Then a good friend reminded me of "Rust" and how polished machine surfaces will rust when water is applied especially in areas where it is difficult to dry. So before proceeding on that tact I thought a post here would be to my benefit. I probably should mention that the machine now is free of rust, it has been inside and kind of taken care of and has not been abused. Next , how to polish and clean the bright surfaces and the calibrated dials. Years of exposure to way oil have dulled all of the dials to the point they are almost unreadable. The table has some signs of mill ends strikes and a few small indentations where drill bits have touched down, and a few nicks from things being dropped but not to bad. What is the best way to clean this table up?

Any advice from you who have been down this road before with an old Bridgeport or clone is greatly appreciated.

 

[Rbeckett]

Pressure washing with a solvent based cleaner is fine. All you need to do after the bath is dry it completely with high pressure compressed air. Evry machine I own has been bathed this way, including welders. The soap solution will strip all of the lubricants and residues off, so make sure after you get it dry that you re-apply some preservatives to prevent humidity haze and surface rust from getting a foot hold. I generally use triple ought steel wool to polish any surface blemishes out and go from there. Once all of the oily film has been removed as well as any loose flakes you can paint immediately. I use Tractor Supply brand implement paints. I prime it well with the red oxide primer, and shot the implement color I choose right on top of that coat while it is still slightly tacky. Then alllow it to sit in the sun and sunbake for a day and bring it into the shop for a couple of days of undisturbed air drying. There is nothing to fear from pressure washing heavy equipment, as long as you are carefull to get it as dry a possible. The standard caveats all apply such as do not direct the washer into plugs, connectors and wiring, and making sure to move the machine through all possible movements when drying to insure you get those hidden water spots dry and your fine. I ususlly remove all the felt wipers and replace them with new felt, and re-adjust any gibs or shims to remove excess slop and play. Definately a reasonably easy job even for most beginners. If you have a doubt about how to dissassemble something take a pic or two as you go and use it to reassemble the unit later. You can do this and have a great time too. If you need any more help or guidance don't hesitate to holler and one of the members or myself will be more than glad to help you out.
Bob

 

[David]

Hi ML, I have done some of what you are about to do as others here also. I personally would not use a pressure washer if you are not taking the machine completely down. Water and bearings don't mix too well! If totally dismantling machine, water usage could be controlled. I use a solvent based cleaner on all machined parts. Be careful on painted surfaces as some manufactures used some funky filler on cast surfaces which makes it hard to patch and paint. As for as shiny surfaces, if it is a machined surface, I use a wire wheel to lightly knock off surface rust then use a polishing wheel on grinder with appropriate buffing compound. If chrome plated, just have to try polishing of some sort. Some members have used a bio-degradable solution to remove surface rust from tables and such. Not sure of name, it is in other posts, someone will help with that.

Show us some pictures so others can help devise a plan with you!

David

 

[ML_Woy]

Hi ML, I have done some of what you are about to do as others here also. I personally would not use a pressure washer if you are not taking the machine completely down. Water and bearings don't mix too well! If totally dismantling machine, water usage could be controlled. I use a solvent based cleaner on all machined parts. Be careful on painted surfaces as some manufactures used some funky filler on cast surfaces which makes it hard to patch and paint. As for as shiny surfaces, if it is a machined surface, I use a wire wheel to lightly knock off surface rust then use a polishing wheel on grinder with appropriate buffing compound. If chrome plated, just have to try polishing of some sort. Some members have used a bio-degradable solution to remove surface rust from tables and such. Not sure of name, it is in other posts, someone will help with that.

Show us some pictures so others can help devise a plan with you!

David

Well here are some pictures I took. First one is the unit arriving on the trailer ready to be unloaded. Getting the fork lift off was a problem, the mill lifted right off with the dolly I had built. The second picture is one of it setting in the yard before I started to clean it up. The third is a picture of it after a days work with soap and water and paint thinner. That old way oil is tough stuff to get off. The coolant tank in the bottom was full of cuttings, someone had lost the screen and it was a chore to empty through the small inspection holes. The shop vac worked double duty, hate to look in the tank and the shape of the air filters now. So far I have found the calibration dials for the x feed to be pinned so they do not rotate and stay where set. There is probably some part worn out under the dial. Cannot figure out how they come off yet. The wipers on all of the surfaces are shot and need replacing. What is best to use for that task, I was thinking of thick felt. There are some nicks in the table and I was wondering if I could fill them in with some weld rod and grind them smooth, anyone tried that before?

 

[Tony Wells]

Nix on the welding the table. If the holes really bother you, clean them out well, degrease them and fill with Devcon metal filler, or JB Weld. Take a file and dull it down if you don't already have a dull one and run it over the table to remove any raised areas. Then talk to Richard about anything further on the table.

I use a siphon gun and mineral spirits, or even kerosene sometimes, and a stiff nylon brush. Hose it down until the grease it softened, then scrub until you're tired of it. Hose it off again, and see how much more there is. Move everything around and try to spray into the screws and nuts that move the table. Remember though, that mineral spirits can leave very little oil behind, and you will need to put something on it to prevent rust from setting in.

 

[AR1911]

Good advice above. When I pressure wash a machine, it's usually at the corner car wash on a hot day, and I have a gallon of WD40 and an air hose ready back at the shop.
I usually squirt it real good with engine cleaner first. This saves a lot of work later.

I have also discovered automotive wheel cleaner does a great job on hardened stains and does not affect paint or any metals. Be sure to get an "all wheel" formula that says it's safe for painted wheels as well as cast and coated.
Good stuff!

Best thing I have found for dials and wheels is a $40 buffer from Harbor Freight, with the green compound stick. Wish I had bought one 10 years ago. Everything in the shop is shinier now

You bought a nice machine, and it looks pretty good already. Keep the photos coming.

 

[ML_Woy]

Nix on the welding the table. If the holes really bother you, clean them out well, degrease them and fill with Devcon metal filler, or JB Weld. Take a file and dull it down if you don't already have a dull one and run it over the table to remove any raised areas. Then talk to Richard about anything further on the table.

I use a siphon gun and mineral spirits, or even kerosene sometimes, and a stiff nylon brush. Hose it down until the grease it softened, then scrub until you're tired of it. Hose it off again, and see how much more there is. Move everything around and try to spray into the screws and nuts that move the table. Remember though, that mineral spirits can leave very little oil behind, and you will need to put something on it to prevent rust from setting in.

Thanks for the advice Tony, been reading your posts for a long time and I think I will leave the holes and nicks in the table alone for now. What type of material should I use to replace the scrapers? When I took the old ones off they just fell apart. Oh, the machine is a "PAL" built by Balding Engineering in England in the 60's or 70's. Little brother to the Beaver VBRP model.

 

[jumps4]

your first mill is a monster
keep us posted about the cleanup and repairs.
steve

 

[Tony Wells]

Lots of people straining fro originality go with felt for the wipes, but new machines have gone with synthetics like Neoprene or similar. Grainger, McMaster, etc, sell sheet and strip materials that will work just fine if you don't mind cutting them out yourself. Some of the more popular machines have enough demand that you can get a premade set. You'll just have to decide which way you want to go. I kind of like making mine myself.

BTW, congrats on the machine. Good looking machine to work on.

 

[DMS]

When I was cleaning up my mill, I started with mineral spirits, but found that concentrated Simple Green worked much better, with less smell. I would also recommend a Scotch Brite pad for the really stubborn stuff; douse it with SG, then scrub with the pad till you hit paint/metal. Wipe with a clean rag.

It took me about a day and a half to clean, bondo dings, and paint the thing. Just pace yourself, plenty of ventilation, clean rags, and whatever cleaning fluid you are using. Oh, and make sure you coat any metal surfaces with oil after you clean them.