Cleaning up a Charles Parker number 474 double-swivel bench vise

[mikey]

Even more rare is the Emmert 4A Universal Vise. Finding one of those in decent condition is a notable event.

 

[brino]

Thanks for all the input, replies and views.
I find that motivating.

Now I need a little help........I cannot remove the main nut from the fixed jaw casting.
I also cannot see why it won't come apart.

Back in post #12 Mikey said:

The reason the nut is the weak spot is that it is cast iron so not the toughest material around. In addition, each nut is fitted by hand in a loose dovetail slot and then retained by another tapered pin. Depending on how well the nut is fitted in the slot, excessive pressure from tightening can put stresses on the nut and it cracks.

Here's the nut from the jaw side:

(and also note the two holes that would allow me to knock out the taper pins that hold the jaw on)

and here's the nut from the back-side:


The nut is in the middle on about a one inch neck up from its' dovetail.
You can see the keeper in the dovetail slot.
It's that little keeper that wont' budge.

I removed this counter-set screw from the outside:


Then by putting a 2x2 wooden block against the nut from the jaw side and giving it a tap with a mallet, I can get the keeper to move about 20 thou.
You can see that the "keeper" did move, it is offset thru the hole.
I cannot see any other fastener or pin.


The nut itself does get loose behind the keeper, I do not believe there's anything holding it now except that keeper in the dovetail slot.

I'd rather not remove the nut than risk any chance of breaking anything.

I had tried penetrating oil and getting it to move for a few days before I put it in the electrolysis bucket.

Thoughts?
Ideas?

Thanks,
-brino

 

[Nogoingback]

Very cool vice you've got there Brino! Looks like you're doing a good job. (And the color
looks just fine.)

 

[mikey]

I would just leave the nut in there, Brino. I'm sure you can tap it out but you can do that if the nut ever cracks.

 

[gcwell]

Yes Brino, if it is not damaged leave it in place. You have made good progress since we spoke Sunday and the vise looks really cool.
George

 

[Silverbullet]

Nice find , I too think these shops buy them for nothing and expect to get ten times there money. I have a Parker vice , one jaws missing , that wrap around design is a give away. Oh I have about six bench models and twenty plus other styles. The only one I use for beating on is an old China or Taiwan swivel job. I've had it forever and it's been used in tons of ways. Good luck with a nice vise sure looks good now too. Doubleboost has one that looks like yours too. He uses it roughly .

 

[brino]

I spent some more time last night moving the little keeper back and forth.
I was going easy because it didn't really need to come out....it was more about a full cleaning and understanding.

Slowly it started moving more and more....and then SUCCESS!



the dovetail:


the nut and keeper, as found:


and cleaned-up:


Now I just need to (find the time to):
-finish cleaning some bits like the main handle, the swivel wrenches, etc.
-paint the outer casting for the fixed jaw, swivel wrenches, etc.
-I think I'll use GlideCote on the movable jaw "slide" areas: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=40952&cat=1,230,64343,64350
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=40952&cat=1,230,64343,64350
-lubricate
-reassemble
-mount

What's recommended lube for lead screw and nut? I was thinking either lithium or plain extreme pressure wheel bearing grease.
Any reason those are not preferred?

Thanks,
-brino

 

[woodchucker]

I think I used butchers wax for mine. I use it on my woodworking vises too.

Glidecote is probably waxy too.

 

[mikey]

What's recommended lube for lead screw and nut? I was thinking either lithium or plain extreme pressure wheel bearing grease.
Any reason those are not preferred?

That's a number 2 nut. It is used in a number of Parker vises and is the most common nut I've seen come up on ebay. Watch for a spare.

I used extreme pressure moly grease. You have a steel screw moving in a cast iron nut at high pressure - the grease helps to reduce wear in this arrangement. This is the only application where I don't automatically reach for my SuperLube.

I also grease the body of the vise where the beam of the movable jaw rides and the bottom of the beam. I used paste wax on the outside of the beam to reduce rust. You do not want oil or grease on the outside of the beam to attract grit and dirt.

 

[brino]

Hi All,

I got the fixed jaw casting masked and painted last night.
Here it is:


I'm getting close now!

-brino