cleaning iron parts

I use Loctite antiseize, the silver stuff. Put a drop on you finger and you can draw a line on the wall with your finger on all 4 walls. A little goes a long long way!
 
Rickabilly said:
Hello All,
The remaining colour is indeed grain structure and carbon and inclusion "Ribbons" uncovered by the loss of iron due to corrosion, unfortunately there really is only one way to get that "fresh machined finish" and I'm sure you've already guessed what that is, when I was studying metallurgy I worked in a steelworks testing lab doing photo etching and all sorts, and the upshot is that metals are far from homogenious regular materials. when the surface is machined often the very top layer of atoms are "smeared across the face leaving a kind of burnishing on the surface which is that shiney face from machining, once you etch it with acid or electrolytic processes that surface is gone and the only way to get it back is to reburnish it. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news there.

But, using never seize is absolutely the right thing to do, never seize isn't alluminium as some have mentioned but rather it is usually nickel based, the nickel is ground superfine and is so fine that it will get into the smallest porosity, the oil will be displaced when the buffing cloth burnishes the surface and once the oil is pushed out the nickel will no longer be mobile, if you find a never seize compound that uses aluminium give it a miss as it will probably cause galling rather than prevent it, the aluminium will oxidise quickly making an abrasive, actually the second toughest behind diamond, and as you probably know abrasives are not good lubricants. the burnishing of nickel particles will resemble the burnished steel from machining, and if the mark you are covering is a porosity defect, which it most likely is, the mating parts will not reach into the pits to scrape out the nickel, so the finish will be relatively permanent, and when it wears off just do it again, with each application it will last longer and longer.

I hope this helps,
Best regards
Rick
Click to expand...

Thanks for clearing that up Rick. Hadn't engaged my brain before using keyboard. :eek:


While my brain was functioning I did put a little "elbow grease" into some steel/iron parts that are stained. The chemical metal polishers had very little to no effect so I did what any good machinist would do, I check to see what the wife has under the sink! :biggrin:

What I found was some "Bar Keepers Friend", the powdered "Cleanser and Polish"



Using a damp rag, I put some of the powder on the rag to make kind of a paste. I then rubbed the paste vigorously on the stained metal.

Before:



After working on the right half of the metal piece for a couple of minutes:



I only did part of it to leave a good contrast to what it was before. I did this by hand with a rag and a little water but I'm sure one would have as good/better results using some kind of buffer/polisher.

What do you think? :biggrin:

-Ron
 
Thanks Rick, Thinking about it again Sunday I gave my GK another coat of never snezze and I have
found out that if used on a schedual like once a week life is good. Example this Greaves tailstock, It
takes me two hands and all the old mans power to move it. After this treatment I can move
it with one hand, and I think paper towels are better than a rag. It seems to creep in the pores, and
again said before I have switched from WD to hardware chain oil spray real good stuff and doesnt
seem to bother never snezz. And the notorious SBend compound witness marks so small now it just
pops I can read it without a spyglass. sam
 
Rickabilly said:
But, using never seize is absolutely the right thing to do, never seize isn't alluminium as some have mentioned but rather it is usually nickel based, the nickel is ground superfine and is so fine that it will get into the smallest porosity, the oil will be displaced when the buffing cloth burnishes the surface and once the oil is pushed out the nickel will no longer be mobile, if you find a never seize compound that uses aluminium give it a miss as it will probably cause galling rather than prevent it, the aluminium will oxidise quickly making an abrasive, actually the second toughest behind diamond, and as you probably know abrasives are not good lubricants. the burnishing of nickel particles will resemble the burnished steel from machining, and if the mark you are covering is a porosity defect, which it most likely is, the mating parts will not reach into the pits to scrape out the nickel, so the finish will be relatively permanent, and when it wears off just do it again, with each application it will last longer and longer.
Click to expand...

That is very interesting Rick. I just ordered a bottle of Permatex 77124 Nickel Anti-Seize compound. Pricey stuff!. I intend to try it on my Centex mill rebuild. The saddle and table are clean, but I have not been real aggressive with cleaning on those precision parts. I'm looking forward to seeing what the anti-seize will do for appearance. The added lubricity is a nice bonus.

I am curious if it will also act as a rust inhibitor?
 
I also ordered some of the silver anti seez. Hoping it will bring out that nice look to the metal again although it sounds like it will.
I ordered this though, a doifferent brand

http://www.google.com/products/cata...a=X&ei=sECMT-ykLoue8gSot83PCQ&ved=0CE4Q8wIwAA

Thanks for the tips all!

I was looking at another thread where a document in the download section shows info about different oils and lubricants.
I am not able to access that section for some reason, maybe because my account is not old enough or something.

I think I know what to do for ways oil but I am not sure about grease for the bearings on the main spindle. Will just a medium
duty bearing grease with PTFE be sufficient? From reading it seems it will but I am always looking for that definitive answer.

Thanks guys!
 
Greg,

I don't think you mentioned what lathe you are rebuilding or the type of bushings/bearings that yours has for the spindle. It will make a difference. What little knowledge I have relates to slightly older iron, '20s - '50s, where most everything is lubricated with different types of oil not grease. In these older machines grease can be a bad thing as it tends to collect swarf and do terrible things.

In other words, a little more information would help (pics are good too ;)) :biggrin:

-Ron
 
Well, I couldn't afford a lathe or anything like that. So I kept searching craigslist for something I could afford.
I found a beat up and rusted old combo unit from northern tool. It is a lathe/drill/mill from 2000. The price
was right, (free) but I am certainly paying for it in labor by rebuilding it.

I stripped it all down and sand blasted all the cast parts. I am refinishing them, and doing the best I can on the
machined parts. Turns out that all that grime and grease all over it preserved it rather well. Surface rust mostly
and the ways are in good shape.

The bearings I refer to are 7208E tapered bearing and a 6207E ball bearing. They both had grease in them
when I dismantled the main spindle housing. I purchased new replacements for both. The max RPM for the mill
portion is 1500 but I don't know that value for the lathe. The manual says to use #30 motor oil for the oiling locations
and to clean and grease the bearings once per year. Does not say what type of grease though. It is sealed in the housing
so I don't think any debris or shavings will get in there.

I am still debating whether I will even fix the mill part of the machine. I started just doing everything to get the lathe working
and figured I would decide after that if I would complete the mill. I at least wanted a working lathe.

The item number for the machine is 143352.

Thanks

--
 
Attached are 2 pics of the housing. This is after I have sanded and painted this piece and then realizing
I should have put the bearings in before I painted. So it needs some touch up.

The tapered bearing is 2 piece and the other part is on the spindle.

IMG00229-20120416-1944.jpg IMG00230-20120416-1944.jpg
 
I'm surprised no one has mention media blasting. Walnut shells or plastic media will clean cast iron and leave it with that "just cast" look, without the use of chemicals. It won't hurt the machined surfaces either.

Tom
 
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