Cleaning and inspecting my new Clausing 6913

I put mine back together to make a new bushing for the worm gear on the inside(towards the ways, not towards the operator) I have the bushing made but will have to tear mine back apart to install. I will look when I can. MIGHT be tomorrow to tear it apart but it depends on time. I will look though and see what it looks like in the manual, and mine.
 
I got most of the the carriage assy cleaned, I set the lead screw inside the bed and forgot about it. I ended up taking the taper attachment completely apart because the chips were hard packed under the slide. Tomorrow, I need to study for a test that I will be taking on Monday. When I finish that priority, I hope to begin polishing the bare metal, prepping the painted parts for new paint and putting as much of it back together as possible. I had not planned to paint but there are a lot of bare spots. I bought smoke gray, hunter green and leather brown. I am going to mix them in quarter cup increments until I find 'THE' color I am looking for. Once I get the ratio, I will mix enough to give it a fresh coat. The weather has turned cold so I may not get to paint until it warms back up.
 
I'll take pics of mine but that looks correct to me from what I saw on mine when I cleaned that gear up. Put some pics of the inside of the apron where the worm gear and bushing are. Also please put a pic of the worm gear itself, mine has taper on both ends and I'm attempting to remedy that with a custom bushing, and a custom tapered shim for the other end. Not sure it will work, but hoping.
Hector
 
By the way the worm gear on mine I assume had a flat face which mine does not anymore due to never being cleaned in my opinion. Wear happens. The bad thing about it is the "non bushing side" wears into the cast iron apron. That's where my idea of a custom tapered shim comes into play. Crossing my fingers it will work and prevent wear to the casting from here on out!
 
Dhector said:
By the way the worm gear on mine I assume had a flat face which mine does not anymore due to never being cleaned in my opinion. Wear happens. The bad thing about it is the "non bushing side" wears into the cast iron apron. That's where my idea of a custom tapered shim comes into play. Crossing my fingers it will work and prevent wear to the casting from here on out!
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I will need to look tomorrow to get a better idea of what you are referring to. I see the worm gear in the manual but it shows it is on the pinion shaft. It is amazing that a month ago these pictures looked like hieroglyphics. Now that I am opening covers and looking around, taking things apart. cleaning and such, I am seeing the lathe and the manual in a whole new light.
 
The worm gear I'm refering to is the 934-010 in the "apron assembly includes page 33" of the manual. The bushing I made is part number Q-392. One other thing I ran into was watch the theading lever when reinstalling the half nuts. It CAN get out of time. Easy to fix, but keep and eye out for it.
 
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Even after you told me where to find it. It took about 10 minutes to see it on the page. Got it! I will take pictures tomorrow.
 
I hadn't planned to take the worm gear out but that was the only way to photograph it. Even after taking it out, it was hard to get a good picture. I finally got the right lighting and focus. I'm glad you 'forced' me to take it out. The worm gear is in pretty good shape except for some pitting on the bearing surfaces but the bushings are worn pretty bad. The wall thickness varies from .08 on bottom to .175 on top. The id is egg shaped. Both the gear and the bushings have random grooves where swarf got in. I am learning a lot from you. Scary isn't it?

Bushing.JPG

worm gear.JPG
 
papa-roe said:
I hadn't planned to take the worm gear out but that was the only way to photograph it. Even after taking it out, it was hard to get a good picture. I finally got the right lighting and focus. I'm glad you 'forced' me to take it out. The worm gear is in pretty good shape except for some pitting on the bearing surfaces but the bushings are worn pretty bad. The wall thickness varies from .08 on bottom to .175 on top. The id is egg shaped. Both the gear and the bushings have random grooves where swarf got in. I am learning a lot from you. Scary isn't it?
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Considering I've only been doing HOBBY machining for less than a year it is scary that you are learning from me(kind of cool though to)!!! Actually it might be kind of scary you are listening me!!!!! I'm no pro so I hope I don't steer you wrong. I'm learning too, as WE go really. Its nice to have the same machines to compare and have a picture backup capability instead of just the manuals. I wont have time to tear mine apart to replace the bushing(maybe for at least a couple weeks, work and then elk season the following week)

If you want I will send you the bushing I made and a custom shim(needs made yet) if you would like. I can't gaurantee they are perfect(They will almost for sure need fine tuned) but I won't be needing them for a while(and I can make another one) You need one sooner than I do so if you want, send me a pm with your name and address and I'll send it to you. All you have to pay for is nothing!!! I have modified the length from stock basically to give room for adjustment to compensate for wear. I,m going to run my worm gear(looks very similar to yours with the wear) Both parts are available still but if there is wear in the apron, it really wont fix the problem I was having(and over 300.00 for both parts) My thoughts is if you put a square ended worm gear in a worn apron(tapered where the square worm gear will ride) it will just wear them both quicker. Im going to save the money, modify it and get a little experience doing it(or a lot if I have to make it several times!!!!:))
 
Here is what my idea is for the custom fix(hopefully) The shim is tapered on both sides(it was eyeballed so i'm sure it isnt perfect) and it will go in first, then the worm gear and then the mating surfaces will be rubbing the shim, rather than the cast iron apron housing. The bushing is longer on both ends. The outside right hand edge may need to be shortened to fit, but it isnt really critical since it doesnt touch the worm gear. The worm gear makes contact internally(which is just to the left of the drain hole you see in the pic) It is tapered as well internally. My thoughts is when the worm gear and the bushing and shim wear to one another, a little adjusting and it should be a nice fit(in my head anyway) After adjusting after running for an amount of time(not sure how long, (2 days, 10 years, no clue) the oil drain in the bushing, will probably need to be elongated to keep it above the drain hole in the apron and allow it to drain the the apron cavity. The left end of the bushing I made longer to allow for further adjustment in the future(a new drain hole may need to be drilled and a new set screw countersink, but at least there is enough material to take up slack). I sure hope all this works the way I think it might. The stock bushing had a small .037 groove in the outside of it. I didnt cut that in on the one I sent. Not sure if it needs it or not, just didnt get that far. I also didnt countersink where the set screw goes in. My plan was to put it back together, run the set screw in to mark it, and then drill it. I think that is a pretty important step that needs to be done. If it isnt in there I could see the worm gear POSSIBLY pushing the bushing out and that in my mind could be a big issue! It will be sent off this afternoon. The wife works for the Post Office so she grabbed it at lunch and will send it your way. Any feed back, positive or negative I'd like to hear. If it wont work, I'd like to know(although I'd really like to get a message saying it all worked perfectly:))


IMG_20171030_111836972.jpg

I just threw this in there for comparison. This pic is the "before fixed" pic. Just an orientation of the above pic.
8.jpg
 
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