Cleaned Out a Broken "Easy-Out" from a 360 Head

And second, why not have a tapered reamer (Also left hand cut), that matches the taper of the easy out, so the easy out will take more then a tiny bite in the bolt?

No need for a tapered reamer, a straight hole gives sufficient grip to break the Easy-Out.

I agree that the straight flute, square profile work better (and break less often) than the helical fluted round ones. That's why you almost never see that type at the hardware store.
 
Agree with John, the old square tapered type are the best- I have a Union #3 that has performed many "hail Mary" extractions and been responsible for many a free beer after a successful stud removal- don't leave home without it!
mark
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I bet that Union brand tool is of better quality than most available today.
 
Great job! I get those in the shop a lot and go straight for the carbide. Lots of air and constant pressure works good. I like to center on the hole as dead center as possible and use an undersized endmill. I you do it right the threads will just fall out and no thread repair is necessary if the ape before didn't get too wild! lol
 
The worst situation is when someone put a too long bolt in a blind hole, and then kept tightening it until it broke off trying to get it to clamp the parts together. Usually it is also broken off in a place where the entire engine needs to be removed to get proper access to it. One "OH SH**" cancels out hundreds of "atta boy's." A few minutes of thinking calmly can save many hours of grief...
 
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