Clausing 8525 Riser Block Completed

opsoff1

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Based on a lot of looking & poking around - there is a fair amount of info / ideas on fabricating a riser for one of these mills.
I ended up opting for a round column riser that fits between the head casting and the round transitional cap on the colum.
Through suggestions here and searching - a piece of DOM tubing was found on egay. It was 7" OD x .438" wall thk x 6" long.
Speedy metals supplied the top and bottom plates that were 1018 steel; 7.25" dia x 1.125" thk. Total cost of all the steel was under $175.
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The design is a very close copy of the riser that joeuser01 posted on the thread started by Bill Gruby here: Riser Block Thread
I added steps to the top and bottom plates where the tube would contact them and cleaned up the ID of the tube as well to match for a snug / square fit.
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Mounted on 5/8 arbor...........................RPM:575 0 nice finish w/ carbide......................Top of top plate ........................................ Underside of top plate
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Top of the bottom plate.............................. Underside of the bottom plate ..............Tubing trued for length & ID

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Test Assembled ................................................................................................................Checking fit on the column

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Wet coat of paint (wrong color :-( )

The top and bottom plates were TiG'd to the pipe and the weld was cleaned up, filled and radiused to blend into the pipe portion. The parts were clamped VERY securely and very small tack welds were alternated on opposite sides until there were 8 - 1/2" beads. I made sure everything was kept cool as I wanted zero warping. I unfortunately did not take pictures of the welding. The 1018 was a breeze to weld to the pipe. I am using 1/2-13 studs with long nuts / washers to clamp the entire assembly in place. Clearance through holes for the studs were bored to .563". This give the assembly a bit of wiggle room to get the studs threaded in to the internal clamping plate. The witness marks were easy to extend top and bottom. Measured parallelism between the top and bottom contact surfaces was .001 at worst and .000 at best. (I can live with that)
The turned the thickness of the top/bottom plates to add .750" each to the height. The tube was cut to 3.50" - so overall added height to the column is 5".
In retrospect - I kind of wish I had gone 4" oal - but this will work fine and give me plenty of room for the dividing head and other fixtures.
I need to color match the paint - first attempt was using a Ben Moore color recommended as a Clausing match - not even close. Second try later tonight.

I'll post more pics when it is the right color and all reassembled.
Sincere appreciation to the folks from the other thread for insight and plans - all of it was a huge help.
 
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Updated - reassembled and with the correct color paint.Mill Riser (1).jpgMill Riser (2).jpgMill Riser (3).jpg
Ended up rebuilding the top end - went through and replaced / refinished everything that needed it. Bearings were in great shape so they stayed. Fine feed gears were also fabulous. This is an early mill - circa 1960, so the gears were all steel. The degrees scale to rotate the head was engraved into the column/ram cap. Studs were used to attach the spacer with coupling nuts. I added a short stud on top to where I could attach the arms for the light and my DRO display. Nylock nuts were used to maintain the "friction" so the arms are moveable, but don't vibrate around. All new motor mount bushings were used - Sorbothane style. I tried cogged belts - way too loud. Standard V belts were installed and along with the new motor anti-vibration pads - the machine is crazy quiet.
Probably this fall/winter - I will tackle rebuilding the bottom half.
 
Looks great.
I have an 8520, and I am curious if I have a factory riser????
Your base mount is quite small compared to mine. Did I get lucky ?
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Thank you - I'm pleased how it came out. You definitely scored a factory riser! I'm curious - what is the height measurement from the top of the column to the bottom of the ram clamp? Also - what year do you think your machine was produced?
 
Looks like 5 3/4"
Don't know the year, but here's the serial #
 

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Woodchucker, does your machine have the collet ejector on top of the spindle?
 
one of the best mods I did for my mill was my quill lock. Originally I tried something similar to yours. But I wanted better. I think it takes way too much to lock the quill.. so I went and did like the Bridgeports.
 
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