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Chuck jaw holding problem.
- Thread starter littlejack
- Start date
I caught up with this thread a couple of days ago and have done some reading on www and watched a few You Tube videos - very interesting and something I definitely want to try.
Since toolpost grinders are as rare as hen's teeth over this side of the pond (or prohibitively expensive) I aim to use my dremel-type thingy.
How have people made their mounts? Do the grinding stones need to be anything special?
Since toolpost grinders are as rare as hen's teeth over this side of the pond (or prohibitively expensive) I aim to use my dremel-type thingy.
How have people made their mounts? Do the grinding stones need to be anything special?
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2014
- Messages
- 53
Hey Robin:
I don't know what lathe you have, and what tool post you have on your lathe, so, I don't know if this will work for you.
I have an Atlas QC 10" x 54. It has the original lantern type tool holder. Here's what I came up with.
The chuck is a 5". I used 5/8" key stock to pre-load the jaws with. There was only about .060 of key stock engaging between each jaw.
That was all the room there was to clear a 5/8" dremel grinder bit.
I used a piece of 3/8" x 1 1/4" flat bar 6" long to mount in the tool holder.
Then, I figured the dimensions needed from the tool holder to the center of the chuck needed to make the dremel holder.
After getting the measurements, I sawed a piece of 2x4 6" long to hold the dremel with.
I used a hole saw to cut an undersize hole (1 3/4") in the 2x4. I then used sanding drum in my drill press to enlarge the hole. I enlarged
the hole ONLY enough to allow a TIGHT twist fit to get the dremel in place. I also drilled and tapped two opposing 3/8" holes, top and
bottom in the 2x4 to hold the dremel as well. Although, I do not think it was necessary.
I then drilled and tapped three 3/8" holes in the flat bar to mount the 2x4 to.
I then transferred the hole pattern to the 2x4 using the d&t flat bar.
I then drilled the 2x4, and bolted it to the flat bar.
All that was left, was to situate the dremel bit to the proper starting point. Then I used the cross feed To feed the bit into the jaws, .001 per run.
All the best with your project.
Regards
Jack
I don't know what lathe you have, and what tool post you have on your lathe, so, I don't know if this will work for you.
I have an Atlas QC 10" x 54. It has the original lantern type tool holder. Here's what I came up with.
The chuck is a 5". I used 5/8" key stock to pre-load the jaws with. There was only about .060 of key stock engaging between each jaw.
That was all the room there was to clear a 5/8" dremel grinder bit.
I used a piece of 3/8" x 1 1/4" flat bar 6" long to mount in the tool holder.
Then, I figured the dimensions needed from the tool holder to the center of the chuck needed to make the dremel holder.
After getting the measurements, I sawed a piece of 2x4 6" long to hold the dremel with.
I used a hole saw to cut an undersize hole (1 3/4") in the 2x4. I then used sanding drum in my drill press to enlarge the hole. I enlarged
the hole ONLY enough to allow a TIGHT twist fit to get the dremel in place. I also drilled and tapped two opposing 3/8" holes, top and
bottom in the 2x4 to hold the dremel as well. Although, I do not think it was necessary.
I then drilled and tapped three 3/8" holes in the flat bar to mount the 2x4 to.
I then transferred the hole pattern to the 2x4 using the d&t flat bar.
I then drilled the 2x4, and bolted it to the flat bar.
All that was left, was to situate the dremel bit to the proper starting point. Then I used the cross feed To feed the bit into the jaws, .001 per run.
All the best with your project.
Regards
Jack
Hi Jack - many thanks for that. I'll try to give it a go :thumbsup:
I have a 10F Atlas (TV36) with a 4 way tool post but otherwise pretty standard. Should be able to attach something to the tool post but I was wondering whether people had bought holders for their dremel or made them (one or two on Ebay (UK) but expensive:shocked: )
I have a 10F Atlas (TV36) with a 4 way tool post but otherwise pretty standard. Should be able to attach something to the tool post but I was wondering whether people had bought holders for their dremel or made them (one or two on Ebay (UK) but expensive:shocked: )
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2014
- Messages
- 53
Robin:
You should be able to make one rather simple, to be held in your QC tool holder. I don't think I would put a whole lot of money into buying
one, as it will not get used much in ones lifetime.
Jack
You should be able to make one rather simple, to be held in your QC tool holder. I don't think I would put a whole lot of money into buying
one, as it will not get used much in ones lifetime.
Jack
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
- Messages
- 10,552
Robin,
Here's a link to a commercial one made to fit a QC tool holder. I think it should fit your 4-way turret holder, too.
http://alisam.com/page/1gu8y/Metalworking/Dremel__tool_holders.html
I also have a drawing of one that I made out of a piece of 4X4 wood post. Requires a milling attachment vise on the cross slide in place of the compound. I can email a PDF if you're interested.
Robert D.
Here's a link to a commercial one made to fit a QC tool holder. I think it should fit your 4-way turret holder, too.
http://alisam.com/page/1gu8y/Metalworking/Dremel__tool_holders.html
I also have a drawing of one that I made out of a piece of 4X4 wood post. Requires a milling attachment vise on the cross slide in place of the compound. I can email a PDF if you're interested.
Robert D.
Thanks for the info guys.
Jack - I agree, no point in spending loads of dosh if you don't have to (and I fancy the idea of being creative:scared: )
Robert - I can't believe how cheap things are over there. You guys should count yourself very lucky
) .
Plans for a wooden creation would be great (I'll pm you an email address :thumbzup: ) -I have seen one on a You Tube video . It was something I hadn't thought about before but should be within my capabilities (famous last words :rofl: )
ETA I do have the Atlas milling attachment but have yet to use it in anger. I have bought a 1/2" end mill which should fit directly into the "holder" I have - it fits onto the drawbar. I don't have any collets though - do you need them to mill?
Jack - I agree, no point in spending loads of dosh if you don't have to (and I fancy the idea of being creative:scared: )
Robert - I can't believe how cheap things are over there. You guys should count yourself very lucky
) .Plans for a wooden creation would be great (I'll pm you an email address :thumbzup: ) -I have seen one on a You Tube video . It was something I hadn't thought about before but should be within my capabilities (famous last words :rofl: )
ETA I do have the Atlas milling attachment but have yet to use it in anger. I have bought a 1/2" end mill which should fit directly into the "holder" I have - it fits onto the drawbar. I don't have any collets though - do you need them to mill?
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
- Messages
- 10,552
Robin,
Just so that I'm sure you understand, you only use the vise off of the milling attachment. It will fit in place of the compound (as will the table off of the Universal Compound Vise).
If all of your cutters had 1/2" shanks, no, you wouldn't need any collets. However, that's unlikely. Atlas sold a set of four reducing bushings to go with the cutter holder, one each with an ID of 7/16", 3/8". 5/16" and 1/4". However, they tend to be what most would call "expensive". I bought one set new from Clausing that cost as I recall about $63. For about the same money, there's an outfit in Hong Kong called CTC Tools who sell an excellent quality set of 3MT (and 2MT) collets in 1/16" increments. The 3MT set covers 1/16" to 3/4" in sixteenth increments. It uses the same 3/8"-16 drawbar as the cutter holder does. If you find that you need smaller increments that 1/16" (most collets have very little "adjustment" range) you can use 3AT (what was originally sold by Atlas), 3C, 5C or that short European type whose name always escapes me. But you will have to acquire the appropriate draw tube for the first two or a front-mounted collet chuck for the latter two. All of which are more expensive to much more expensive than the 3MT or Atlas cutter holder and bushings. But any of the 4 are either available in 1/64" increments or have a have a larger operating range. And all can hold much longer work if it will pass through the spindle or somewhat longer work if it won't.
If all that you need collets for is to hold milling cutters, the cheapest solution is the 3MT set.
Robert D.
Just so that I'm sure you understand, you only use the vise off of the milling attachment. It will fit in place of the compound (as will the table off of the Universal Compound Vise).
If all of your cutters had 1/2" shanks, no, you wouldn't need any collets. However, that's unlikely. Atlas sold a set of four reducing bushings to go with the cutter holder, one each with an ID of 7/16", 3/8". 5/16" and 1/4". However, they tend to be what most would call "expensive". I bought one set new from Clausing that cost as I recall about $63. For about the same money, there's an outfit in Hong Kong called CTC Tools who sell an excellent quality set of 3MT (and 2MT) collets in 1/16" increments. The 3MT set covers 1/16" to 3/4" in sixteenth increments. It uses the same 3/8"-16 drawbar as the cutter holder does. If you find that you need smaller increments that 1/16" (most collets have very little "adjustment" range) you can use 3AT (what was originally sold by Atlas), 3C, 5C or that short European type whose name always escapes me. But you will have to acquire the appropriate draw tube for the first two or a front-mounted collet chuck for the latter two. All of which are more expensive to much more expensive than the 3MT or Atlas cutter holder and bushings. But any of the 4 are either available in 1/64" increments or have a have a larger operating range. And all can hold much longer work if it will pass through the spindle or somewhat longer work if it won't.
If all that you need collets for is to hold milling cutters, the cheapest solution is the 3MT set.
Robert D.