Chuck diameter question

Ah ok. Well most of what i want to do is going to be 1-2" in diameter, from 1" to 10" in length, and will need to be bored as well. So anything over 3" past the chuck I'm going to want something to support the work. Ive seen different options such as the steady rest or using the pointed thing on the tail stock. What are the pros and cons of these different devices and when are they best used? As I'm looking for a replacement tool rest i also need to find the tooling I will use.
 
Make sure you understand how to set up a steady rest, so the work is held properly and so the work does not want to walk out of the chuck. It takes some understanding and care to get it right.
 
Hello @borjawil and Welcome to the site!

Here's a couple of PDF books you might find useful:
http://hobby-machinist.com/resources/sb-how-to-run-a-lathe-1966-27th-edition-56-pdf.2909/

http://hobby-machinist.com/resource...r-and-electrical-shop-bulletin-no-7-pdf.2866/

-brino

EDIT: hhhhmmmmm...Southbend bulletin #7 is supposed to be a booklet on making bushings, but the document linked above is NOT the full booklet. I will try to look around at home and see if I have the full document. Anyone feel free to PM me a reminder if I don't post back with a day or two. brino.
 
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Doing long pieces can be tricky cause you would need to support the work with the tailstock center (the pointy thing) to do the outside turning and then switch to a steady rest to do the boring. Which can mess up the outside finish of the part- unless you use another gadget called a "cat head"... tools to make tools to make tools...
Mark S.
 
If you're doing long bushings, you might consider buying DOM tubing and having it honed to size, mounting on a mandrel between centers to finish the OD and faces. Might save you some grief. You also might be able to buy pre-finished material with the bore already honed to size. (Think hydraulic cylinders).
 
Awesome thanks for all the info! Most of the bushings or spacers will be 2" long tops I believe. Steering stems are generally hollow as well but the OD is the important part to press into triple trees. If I can find spacers with an ID that works then of course Ill go that route, however, most of my spacers are for swapping motorcycle front ends that require a different sized bearing and the bearing race needs to be a slip fit, tolerances pretty tight.
 
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