Chuck Alignment

I think there is sufficient thickness to re machine the back plate. Its flange is 1/2 thick. I would reclock the three mounting holes. This is only a Craftsman 109 so it wont see much torque.
 
Blue Chips said:
So the bolts were binding and not letting the chuck seat properly? I totally misunderstood, and by drilling them out you've come up with the perfect fix. Pins and all. What's the runnout on a nice round bar sticking out about 4 inches? And running the dial down the length, is it straight and parallel? And of course, the bottom line: A workpiece, how is that doing?
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Yes, correct. I havent checked the run out on a nice round bar fully yet. But a quick check before I closed shop was .003 to .005 on the chucked rod by the chuck jaws. I havent run down the length yet since I need to get a true long rod. Looking back I should have indicated on the chucked rod instead of the chuck OD. But what I have done is reversible. I need to spend some more time in the shop but that wont happen until later in the week. Thanks for your help.
 
I my experience, 3 jaws have been nothing but trouble as I do not have the budget for one that is worth owning. I use collets for smalls and use a 4 jaw for nearly everything else. It may be worth your time and money to invest in an adequate 4 jaw. With practice you will be able to set one up nearly as fast as a 3 jaw. The only redeeming quality of a 3 jaw, in my eyes, is for chucking hex stock.
 
biguglycaprice said:
I my experience, 3 jaws have been nothing but trouble as I do not have the budget for one that is worth owning. I use collets for smalls and use a 4 jaw for nearly everything else. It may be worth your time and money to invest in an adequate 4 jaw. With practice you will be able to set one up nearly as fast as a 3 jaw. The only redeeming quality of a 3 jaw, in my eyes, is for chucking hex stock.
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Well a 4 jaw came with the lathe, but it is a clunker.
 
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