Cheap evaporust

You also need to make sure the piece is fully covered. If you leave something partway out/in the evaporust, you'll get an oxidation line at the meniscus.
 
From the Evsaporust SDS, it is about 16% EDTA. Our local Menards sells Evaporust for $20/gal. A gallon of 40% EDTA from the above vendor would make 2,5 gallons of the Evaporust formulation at a cost of $60 plus shipping while the 2.5 gallons from Menards would cost $50.
I downloaded the SDS and cannot find EDTA listed. just proprietary chemical (that sucks).

Just a reminder on evaporrust, don’t use on spring steel or polished hardened steel. Used it on a pair of dividers and the spring steel that clips on the top of the legs came out in pieces. Some thing about hydrogen embrittlement.
I have not had the same problem with spring steel. I did a test with spring steel after Dave said the same thing.. Nothing happened.
 
So again, nothing but proprietary ingredients is listed.
That's the Harris SDS, which I didn't see, I only saw the CRC sds.. both do not list EDTA.
 
I have several small engine gas tanks I need to get cleaned up both internal and outside.
What's the best way to do this??
I have a large ultrasonic cleaner that I last used when I restored my 9A a few years back, it's large enough to hold these tanks.
I read some where about electrolysis using a battery charger and a steel rod isolated and suspended inside the tank.
Any thoughts on this method, does it work?
Yes sir, an electrolysis tank is the way to go
 
Yes sir, an electrolysis tank is the way to go
Of course bead blasting is an option but it’s not cheap. Does an amazing job though. I just recently got my cabinet set up with a dust and media collector. It was expensive to do but man it works. With the speed bead I’m using it leave steel just about white. Perfect for paint prep
 
So again, nothing but proprietary ingredients is listed.
That's the Harris SDS, which I didn't see, I only saw the CRC sds.. both do not list EDTA.
The guys on the Fitzall podcast were discussing this. All three of them had a sponsorship (or free product) relationship with the company's founder before he sold to CRC. They echoed that it's proprietary stuff with no widely available equivalent. Eric is the PhD science type among them (Mr Hand Tool Rescue...) and went on to say that even if you had the "formula", the chemical production process is complex enough to make it prohibitively expensive to replicate.

I'm no chemist. Just passing on info from three guys who know more than me.
 
The active ingredients in Evaporust are about 5X faster than straight EDTA. I've tried them both. I now use Citric acid as a first step (mainly because it is cheap.

Shipping EDTA to Canada is spotty at best so my second step is Evaporust.

Several of the guys around here do electrolysis. I like my 2 step better.
 
I use vinegar then neutraise it with baking soda, wash, dry and paint immediately
 
I agree, sometimes I get so wound up saving money that I miss the fact that I didn't.

I like to put evaporust in a ziplok bag and place it in the ultrasonic in heated water run for about 3 or 4 minutes then let it set and repeat in the morning, usually the parts come out looking new.
IMO this is THE way to use an ultrasonic cleaner regardless of the cleaning solution.
 
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