Chatter Turning OD

K

Kroll

Active User
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Guys I made myself a sleeve and slide it over the shaft that I am repairing but I have some chatter in it.I'm turning 500rpm first using power feed then I tried hand feed but still has some chatter.The insert is not old hardly any use on it,I don't have the tool sticking out and the part is not sticking out and only taking about .002 pass.I guess I could say that its divets for oil but I don't know ya'll would buy that,what am I doing wrong.Na,its not no harden steel just plain old steel I had laying around.IMG_0372.JPGIMG_0369.JPG
 
You picture shows the part sticking out quite a ways. How far out was it when you were turning (should be right up against the chuck). Can you provide some tailstock support? It is amazing, just a little help from the tailstock makes a big difference. Also, you are using carbide which has more tool push - HSS can be made "keener" than carbide - that may help as well.

Keep working at it, sometimes it just takes a bit of fussing to figure out.
 
Carbide seems to like deeper cuts. Try 0.010 or 0.020. You might do better faster as well.

If you're trying to make a finish pass and need the shallow cut, sharp HSS is where it's at.

If you have more of the same steel, chuck that up and test different things till you can cut what you want every time. Then do it on the real part.

I also think that the part could use more support.
 
With carbide inserts I was also wondering if 500rpm is quite slow for a small looking part. And the insert might want a deeper cut than .002.
You may want to switch to a hss tool.
Might also want to check for play and backlash in your compound/cross slide.
 
The soft jaws on your chuck. Did you preset them and bored them out before using? I think what you are seeing is the part "bouncing" around in the jaws of the chuck..

Your insert cutter should be fine for .002" or even .125" cut, even at 500 RPM.
 
I note that the tool is hanging way out past the left edge of the cross slide, possibly causing the tool to cant over, but it is not likely with such a fine cut. Another thing is the relatively large nose radius on the tool and negative rake, which does not promote free cutting.
 
Fantastic guys,thanks for all the response.Just got those jaws which I did not true them up,but that is an adjust chuck or accu chuck I think its called.I watch Youtube on how to true up jaws but I need something to go around the outside of the jaws to keep pressure on them.Going back out to setup my cross slide better
 
You cannot true chuck jaws by restraining the OUTWARD movement of the jaws, you need to restrain the INWARD movement of the jaws when boring out the I.D of the jaws; there is a set of devices to accomplish the task that look like a three legged cam that is pinched against the master jaws, or one can cut a Allen wrench in three short pieces and insert the pieces (projecting past the front of the jaws), and chucking down on a short steel ring. On chucks with only hard jaws, I have drilled holes (carbide drill) in the face of the jaws and inserted removable pins and chucked down on a ring and internal ground the jaws.
 
That's a resonant vibration issue.
A deeper cut will work but may give taper due to part deflecting.
You can see where it gets 'less' closer to chuck.
I would check headstock bearings, use a longer largish diameter bar to see how much movement you have over 1 ft length.
They may be OK, may be worn or may need adjusting
 
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