Challenging Job On A 109

[wa5cab]

Good point about the spindle threads. There aren't too many of the 700 Series around.

Yes, that's the idea with the boring bar. However, the bar must be the type with a square hole broached through it at right angles to the bar. And you mount the cutter "backwards" (sticking in instead of out). For normal boring (working on the ID of the part) I often use boring bars made for a boring head on a mill as they are ready to use out of the box. However, I've never seen any of these made "backwards" for working on the OD. So you need the bar with the hole through it in order to do what I was suggesting.

 

[ericc]

Got it! Thanks. That's a great idea, and I have that kind of boring bar. I don't think that I will turn something like this very soon, though, since it was really touchy. The belt tension was loosened so that the belt would slip instead of bending the spindle. Too long of a moment arm.

 

[pollardd]

I wasn't suggesting that you bought a face plate. I was pointing out my lack of courage to make my own.
I reckon 10 points for figuring out how to make it your self with the equipment you have.

I'm in the middle of constructing a wagon wheel hub for a restoration job on a old horse cart. The OD of the hub is about 8" and as I said my lathe has a 10" swing.
The hub is about 10" wide and the cross side won't go under it. Luckily it is made out of wood and not steel
I came up with a hand made reverse boring bar with a hand ground HSS cutting bit. The bar stuck out from the tool post about 11" and looked ridiculous.
But light cuts on wood and my hubs came out looking like a million bucks.


Here it is mounted on the axle with two steel rings pressed on and the new leather thrust washers.
There are two internal tapers one of which is about three time the length of the travel on my compound slide.
Again, I'm glad it is wood
David