Cdco 5c Collet Chuck

That plate is for using lathe dogs for turning between centers or as a faceplate. A nice item to have. I would just buy a new back plate with the proper threads or a blank back plate and cut threads to fit your spindle or go the mt to 5c route as Jim suggested.. Seems to be a waste of a useful item to use it for a chuck mount. And Jim and Michael beat me to it.lol.

Darrell
 
I bought a less expensive 5C chuck and careful made a mount for my lathe. The run out was excessive, IMO, like .006 TIR. So I witness marked the chuck and the lathe so that I could always return the chuck to the same position. Then I mounted my Dremel in the toolpost and used the compound set at the angle of the head of a 5C (10 degrees?) and careful re-ground the mouth of the 5C chuck. This worked fantastic! It was easy. I really did not have to grind that much to true it up. The TIR now insignificant.
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Grind5Cchuck2.jpg
 
Thanks guys, also I noticed the CDCO collet holder has three bolts so that is the other problem. CDCO does have a back plate with various threads and diameter, would that be suitable for their collet holder? It is plain and could be faced and maybe grooved for the collet holder.
 
jaybeckham said:
Thanks guys, also I noticed the CDCO collet holder has three bolts so that is the other problem. CDCO does have a back plate with various threads and diameter, would that be suitable for their collet holder? It is plain and could be faced and maybe grooved for the collet holder.
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As long as the plate is the correct dia. just face it and cut a shoulder as required, drill the required holes and you are good to go.

Darrell
 
Here is maybe a dumb question. Looking at the CDCO collet chuck, I gather the tee wrench tightens the collet? No long rod needed like you would for a MT mount? In other words I get this and the back plate and that should be all I need except for the actual collets?
Thanks again for everyone's help.
 
jaybeckham said:
Here is maybe a dumb question. Looking at the CDCO collet chuck, I gather the tee wrench tightens the collet? No long rod needed like you would for a MT mount? In other words I get this and the back plate and that should be all I need except for the actual collets?
Thanks again for everyone's help.
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Yup.....now bear in mind there are pros and cons to this choice. Collets offer several advantages at a price. Repeatable accurate centering and speed of changing parts. Accuracy, either a collet chuck or draw bar style work the same. Speed, the lever closer can't be beat. Just depends on the use you need the collets for. Also if you have a short bed lathe the collet chuck sticks out and reduces the amount of room you have.

Darrell
 
Thanks Darrell
My lathe is a 12 x 36 short not short. I am turning wheels for O Scale engines. They are about 1.5" in diameter and a 1/4" deep. So I need repeatable accuracy. I turn down the wheel and then mount a "tire" on it with a press fit for half of the wheels. The other half have to be turn about .003 more so that I can slip "Fish Paper" between the wheel and tire to insulate half of the wheels. The top items are tires and the lower ones are the actual wheels. The tires have the typical railroad flange on them.
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So here is another option because you are dealing with diameters over 1". You will need a step or pot collet to machine per your requirements or http://www.dillonmfg.com/index.asp. Soft jaws for your 3 jaw chuck. I am a huge proponent of these. Available in steel or aluminum, machine to fit your parts and way cheaper than the required chuck and collets. Or these.http://www.breakhearttool.com/products machineable arbors for I.D holding.

Darrell
 
Darrell

The information I have about turning these wheels suggests the use of a custom mandrel like this but without the pin as I am turning electric engine drivers and they don't have a crank pin like a steam engine does. See photo below. He turned the mandrel to .500 to fit his collet. I could mount the stock in my three jaw and turn it true there and as long as I didn't remove it, it would stay accurate. If I had to remove it, I could mark the jaw and the mandrel so I would get in back into the same position. The tires I have are ready to press on so only the wheels have to be turned. I do have one problem the wheel are sintered iron and I am told that it can be difficult to turn. I do have carbide inserts and I imagine they would be better with the iron than using HSS cutters.

That said some day I do want to get a collet chuck.
 
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