cast iron repair

I was thinking about that, but 7x10 lathe and no mill = lots if dremel time and what material will be strong enough? Lastly how to cut that big acme thread...
 
What else do you have for tooling. Do you have a welder? Chuck sais he fixed his with some flux core. That's one way to try.

The acme thread can be single point threaded. If you have a small boring bar. Grind a single point HSS cutter that fits in your boring bar. Picture a big thick washer with the edge turned down, leaving more meat in the center, for your thread.

You could make that piece as one solid cylindrical piece minus the boss. That boss is there to prevent the piece from rotating when you rotate the clamping screw. You can try it, without the boss, just using the two bolts to act as your anti-rotation. Or you can weld a chunk of steel to it after the part is turned. The air space between the nutt and washer is why it broke, yours would be solid in that area.

Just throwing ideas out there.
 
Ive got an ironman 230, lincoln 250 tombstone and oxy-acetelene. I'm thinking about wirefeed, just not sure what wire and if I should pre-heat the cast iron. I'll try something but still want to try and get the replacement part. I have this thing about throwing anything away...
 
After looking at it again my break was a different part. The top is pressed into the base(best I can tell). Mine broke the ring the top was pressed in. But flux fixed it none the less. And fixed it pretty good for not knowing if it could even be welded with flux. Sometimes ignorance is awesome. ahahaha
 
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/support/welding-how-to/pages/welding-cast-iron-detail.aspx
That is some good info for your stick welder I have mig welded cast iron trick is short bead then peen with a hammer while still hot don't let the metal get to hot or it will go super brittle also some welds like a dream some spits and sputters making you hate welding and want to throw things I would try the stick method I have had more success with that on engine blocks and bell housings but as always if its already broke what do you have to lose also clean it well grind it lightly to get all the crap off or it will be impossible
 
It's worth trying to weld. If it doesn't work, it was broken anyway. Lots of people will say it can't be done, but as chuckorlando has shown, it can be done. A stick welder with cast iron (nickel) rods can do a good fix on cast iron if you pre-heat before welding and cool slowly after welding. Use your Dremel to vee out the crack so you get good weld penetration. If you were closer to me, I would help you do it. Best of luck,

GG
 
GarageGuy said:
It's worth trying to weld. If it doesn't work, it was broken anyway. Lots of people will say it can't be done, but as chuckorlando has shown, it can be done. A stick welder with cast iron (nickel) rods can do a good fix on cast iron if you pre-heat before welding and cool slowly after welding. Use your Dremel to vee out the crack so you get good weld penetration. If you were closer to me, I would help you do it. Best of luck,

GG
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I believe that using nickel makes it brazing, not welding.
 
The nickel rodsI have used are welding electrodes (rods) with a specific coating to work with cast iron. An arc welder is used so I believe that the correct process term is welding. Pre-heating is often recommended and peening also can be helpful.
 
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