Can You Use A Dead Center

i make a habit of applying center lube each time i am going to use the center- whether i'm first setting up or reinstalling after measurement
make sure you don't over tighten the center- it will create a lot of heat and can ruin the work or center or both .
oil will lube but it may be squeezed out of the center-work interface.
ep grease has shear resistance that oil cannot match- making the ep a better choice, if available.
a dead center can produce very accurate work , but there are concessions to working with them
 
Yes, fresh grease to the centers every time. I keep my reservoir full on the tailstock. Then I use the dauber to apply. I also spin the chuck by hand while I tighten up the tailstock then lock the tailstock quill. I still want to be able to turn the workpiece freely without too much drag.
 
I simply do not understand this, aside from grinding at very low rotational speeds, why would anyone consider using a dead center in a tailstock in the year 2016.

Please explain
 
I guess its why people continue to forge steel in old world blacksmith traditions, or use traditional methods for building mudbrick homes.
Or perhaps even persevere with quaint old manual lathes when CNC is available..........

Cheers Phil
 
Wreck™Wreck said:
I simply do not understand this, aside from grinding at very low rotational speeds, why would anyone consider using a dead center in a tailstock in the year 2016.

Please explain
Click to expand...

In truth, I don't think very many of us do.
 
The fact is,a dead center is the only type center that is TRULY dead nuts accurate. Watch lathes still use them. And,not just because they are compact. All ball bearing centers have some degree of runout,no matter how small,it is present. When the highest degree of accuracy is needed,a dead center will give it.

For light loaded work,when you want extreme concentricity,a dead center with the point ACCURATELY ground SQUARE (and,I DO MEAN ACCURATELY!) ,mounted in the spindle hole,will have enough bite to enable you to turn light work with it. This was sometimes used in days long past. But,it is still a dodge well worth knowing about. Being from a museum,I have spent a lot of time learning about old techniques. They can still be applied to a modern lathe if needed.

Of course we all use ball bearing centers 99.9% of the time because they are easier to use and require no lubricating when in use. I have Royals myself. My favorite is a little Royal that has a small spindle that runs inside the #2 Morse taper body. It is very handy when turning extra small items,which I frequently make. The little Royal has no bulky body housing its bearings. The bearings are INSIDE the #2 MT shank! I use it on my Hardinge HLVH,which has a #2 M.T. tailstock. It was not cheap!!
 
George, what do you mean "ground square"? I'm curious about this as I have wanted to be able to turn some small stuff without a chuck or dog in the way.
 
You would need a tool and cutter grinder,or at least be quite good at freehand grinding.

I mean that 4 facets can be ground onto the 60 degree portion of the dead center. This leaves 4 corners that have enough bite to turn small items of brass,aluminum,wood,ivory,etc. which do not take much power.

If you do it freehand,you must leave just a thin sliver of the original surfaces showing. These can be stoned sharp with an India slip stone. The center of the dead center must not be eradicated. A tiny bit of its original surface must also be left.
 
Sounds interesting, but I'm having trouble picturing a setup to actually make the grinds come out correctly.
 
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