Can My Plastic Sign Be Fixed?

Agree with Boswell plus I would wear leather gloves and do the pressing with my fingers. The human hand is a great tool, especially when doing a procedure "on the fly"
mark
 
I would start off by visiting Tap Plastics. They make a lot of custom plastic stuff for both consumer and commercial use.

I have never been to the San Francisco store, but in every Tap Plastics I've been to the staff has been very friendly and helpful to hobbyists.
 
I agree with the hair dryer approach over a form, which doesn't need to be elaborate, a piece of plywood cut to size ought to do.
Or leave it as is, 1988 was a long time ago, its bound to have some stories to tell...
 
I would start off by visiting Tap Plastics. They make a lot of custom plastic stuff for both consumer and commercial use.

I have never been to the San Francisco store, but in every Tap Plastics I've been to the staff has been very friendly and helpful to hobbyists.
Thanks. There actually is a Tap Plastics about 30 minutes away.
 
Yay! I was worried I was going to get flamed for my silly post and pics :). I really like the light heat over wood while using gloved fingers to re-form the plastic, and it's good to know I could go to Tap Plastics for help. I actually got a whole bunch of free, good acrylic from them when I bought a welding helmet from them off craigslist. I saw 3 huge bins of acrylic, and asked the owner/boss guy if I could take some. He told me to take as much as I liked. These were theit production rejects. Some sheets where perfectly fine and only had 1 or 2 drilled holes it it. I thought I could use this free acrylic to make protective shields for my machines. So, I really recommend checking out these plastic places for free plexiglass or acrylic since that stuff is often expensive (at least to me).
 
Do not use acrylic for any type of shield, it shatters very easily. Any type of stress and it will crack. Use polycarbonate/Lexan if you want to make a shield. It is sold in smaller sheets at most big box hardware stores. I would use a minimum of 1/4". Similar to what others have said about reforming plastic, I use gentle heat over a mold or form, there is often a very narrow temperature range between plasticity and a little hotter the plastic will sag/flow/bubble. Nice looking sign, worth trying to restore it, let us know how it turns out.
 
Do not use acrylic for any type of shield, it shatters very easily. Any type of stress and it will crack. Use polycarbonate/Lexan if you want to make a shield. It is sold in smaller sheets at most big box hardware stores. I would use a minimum of 1/4". Similar to what others have said about reforming plastic, I use gentle heat over a mold or form, there is often a very narrow temperature range between plasticity and a little hotter the plastic will sag/flow/bubble. Nice looking sign, worth trying to restore it, let us know how it turns out.
Thank you, mksj.
I really appreciate you correcting my misinformation about acrylic. In a previous post, I shared a link to an ebay posting for super affordable, surplus/reject cut Lexan Margard. Supposedly, this Margard coating protects the Lexan from marks that would normally scratch up Lexan. I bought 1 sheet, but am seriously considering buying more while since the price is so affordable. Anyways, thanks again for your valued info.
 
Lexan is pretty scratch resistant compared to a lot of other clear plastics. I know Lexan face shields for my motorcycle helmet are a lot more expensive than a plain Acrylic one and worth every cent. Polish with Meguiars Headlight Polish and it becomes near invisible.
 
Lexan is pretty scratch resistant compared to a lot of other clear plastics. I know Lexan face shields for my motorcycle helmet are a lot more expensive than a plain Acrylic one and worth every cent. Polish with Meguiars Headlight Polish and it becomes near invisible.
Yeah, I now understand that acrylic and Lexan are 2 different animals, lol
 
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