Buying a metal lathe

Thanks again for the great tips! Sort of waiting for more votes / more details that would provide a firm validation or firm rejection of the Sherline option :). Based on my research, this is the only brand (other than TAIG mentioned above, which have shorter platforms) that can be had for under $1k while almost never receiving any quality complaints.
 
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Without asking Mikey specifically, just that he has one, and is keeping it, is a positive evaluation of the quality.
 
Thanks again for the great tips! Sort of waiting for more votes / more details that would provide a firm validation or firm rejection of the Sherline option :). Based on my research, this is the only brand (other than TAIG mentioned above, which have shorter platforms) that can be had for under $1k while almost never receiving any quality complaints.

Hey xyz, I'm Mikey and I own a Sherline lathe. The first thing I would like to know is if the "knowledgeable" guy you mentioned ever actually put his hands on a Sherline lathe. In my experience, the most vigorous critics have never even seen one, let alone operated one. Not sure where this negativity comes from but anyone who has ever owned a lathe will tell you that you do not know a lathe until you've lived with it for a while, and I have lived with a Sherline lathe for over 35 years so I sort of know a little bit about it.

You mentioned in your original post that you are looking to turn small steel parts and want to keep your lathe purchase under $1K. Any other details you care to share? For example, are you a model maker, Horologist or are you just a hobby guy looking to get into machining? Any idea of the largest work piece you are likely to make?

Pending your input, let me give you a general overview of the Sherline lathe.
  • It is small and light. You can store it on a shelf and take it down when you need it. As long as it is mounted on a solid platform, this lathe will maintain its accuracy and levelness for years. Mine has been stable for 35 years on the same piece of Melamine ply and I move it all the time.
  • It can handle 1-1/4" over the cross slide. This is important because this is the largest diameter you can turn from end to end unless you use riser blocks. With risers, you can double this clearance, making the Sherline the equivalent of a 6" mini-lathe. I don't use these blocks because it reduces rigidity but they are available for the occasional big work piece.
  • It uses a 0.08HP DC motor that can go from a crawl to 2800 real RPM and maintain torque throughout the range. There are two pulley positions for the belt - high speed/lower torque, low speed/higher torque. I mostly run in the high speed range and never had the lathe bog or slip a belt, even when taking heavy cuts. With the right tool, this lathe will take a 0.050" deep cut in mild steel for an overall diameter reduction of 0.100", something that even a 9 or 10" lathe will struggle to do. Make no mistake. The Sherline lathe is small but it is a real lathe and can do real work.
  • This lathe is precise, meaning it is capable of doing precision work. The Sherline leadscrews are very precise. If I dial in 0.005" of cut, that is what I get. If I dial in 0.0001", that is what I get. You will find that how big a cut a lathe can take is not nearly as important as how accurately it can take small cuts to come in on size. I usually work to personal tolerances of +/- 0.0005" or less because on this lathe, I can.
  • This lathe will cut pretty much whatever a hobby guy runs across - stainless, mild steel, titanium, brass, plastics, aluminum, wood, etc. If a regular lathe can cut it, a Sherline lathe can, too.
  • My 4400 lathe is fully manual but I have an outboard DC variable speed motor on the leadscrew for power feed. With it and the motor speed control, I can alter spindle speed and feeds on the fly to give me incredible control of the cut in real time. In manual mode without power feed, I do admit it is a bit tedious hand cranking to move the carriage around but to be honest, this never really registers and I just work without thinking about it. I raise this to advise you that you will have to turn wheels to do things on this lathe. It is not a problem.
  • Sherline has the largest inventory of accessories of any machine tool manufacturer. If you need something to do something, Sherline will have it OR you can usually make it yourself if you also have a Sherline mill. The quality of Sherline accessories, especially their chucks, is really hard to beat. Nobody, and that includes Taig, even comes close in this size of machine.
But all is not roses. Here are some negatives.
  • The lathe is small and there will be times when you are pushing the size envelope with this machine. If you can fit it on the lathe, the lathe will cut it. The problem is that some work just will not fit and then you're sort of screwed. It is why I now own a larger lathe but it took over 20 years before I was forced to buy it.
  • The Sherline tailstock is not adjustable and this well and truly sucks. There are work arounds, like their adjustable live centers, but this is the single biggest negative to this lathe. It isn't truly that horrible. Mine is something like 0.001" or so off, I think, but on a long work piece this is a pain to deal with. You would think they would have made it laterally adjustable after all this time but they haven't. I got around this issue by making a better live center.
  • You have to use a threading attachment to cut threads. The motor has to come off and you have to attach a gear cluster to the end of the lathe to use it, which is a pain at times. On the other hand, this arrangement allows you to cut more threads than any other lathe I have seen and it is capable of cutting class 3 internal and external threads all day. Feed is manual so no worries about crashing or damaging anything and control is extremely fine so while it can be a pain to set up, it works very well.
  • They have engineered plastic gibs. This is not a negative really. I raise it because others will. The gibs on Sherline machines will probably outlast the machine itself, rarely needs adjusting and allow the machine to take cuts it really shouldn't be able to take. They are a superb piece of engineering that allows a machine that is largely made from aluminum to function without much wear at all over decades of use. My lathe is over 35 years old and has almost zero wear on the ways or anywhere else. The same thing applies to my mill. The naysayers don't know what they're talking about.
I hope this helps. Almost everything I know about machining was learned on Sherline machines. They are real machine tools and can do real work. If they fit your work envelope then they are worthy of your consideration. If you have questions, I can probably answer them or point you in the right direction.
 
I'm a Sherline owner, and quite happy with mine. It is limited in size but if the work fits, it is a nice lathe.

Whatever you get, a more realistic budget is $1500-2000.

The base Sherline lathe is around $600, but that is just the lathe. They have a well equipped package deal (the C package) that comes with the most popular accessories at a significant discount, but that does bump the price to almost $1300.

There are risers allowing larger work to be done at some loss of rigidity. I don't have them, some say they work well, some don't like them.

Taig has its fans, the big plus seems to be that it is slightly larger than a Sherline, cheaper and seems very popular to modify. It does not have Sherline's large list of accessories although many are compatible with it.

Unimat is sort of a proto Sherline. Capable of similar size work, but long out of production. Sherline does offer some accessories made to fit a Unimat. Unimats also have a bit of a collector appeal which can result in higher prices although they do still turn up at a reasonable price if you are patient.

If you want something bigger, the 8x16, 9x19 and 10x22 import lathes are better options than the various 7x lathes. Lots of options on older lathes but that is a whole other hole to delve into.

Last comment on the Sherline. Look up Luiz Ally on YouTube, that should silence most critics.
 
One last thing, Sherline and Taig are USA made, in Southern California and Arizona.. Unimat is European (Austria Ithink) if that matters to you.

Sherline has great customer service and a lot of their accessories have been developed based on owners feedback.
 
Thanks for all the great tips and comments! Just what I was hoping for when I joined HM - finally got clarity on how to proceed with my lathe quest.
 
Hey xyz, I'm Mikey and I own a Sherline lathe. The first thing I would like to know is if the "knowledgeable" guy you mentioned ever actually put his hands on a Sherline lathe. In my experience, the most vigorous critics have never even seen one, let alone operated one. Not sure where this negativity comes from but anyone who has ever owned a lathe will tell you that you do not know a lathe until you've lived with it for a while, and I have lived with a Sherline lathe for over 35 years so I sort of know a little bit about it.

You mentioned in your original post that you are looking to turn small steel parts and want to keep your lathe purchase under $1K. Any other details you care to share? For example, are you a model maker, Horologist or are you just a hobby guy looking to get into machining? Any idea of the largest work piece you are likely to make?

Pending your input, let me give you a general overview of the Sherline lathe.
  • It is small and light. You can store it on a shelf and take it down when you need it. As long as it is mounted on a solid platform, this lathe will maintain its accuracy and levelness for years. Mine has been stable for 35 years on the same piece of Melamine ply and I move it all the time.
  • It can handle 1-1/4" over the cross slide. This is important because this is the largest diameter you can turn from end to end unless you use riser blocks. With risers, you can double this clearance, making the Sherline the equivalent of a 6" mini-lathe. I don't use these blocks because it reduces rigidity but they are available for the occasional big work piece.
  • It uses a 0.08HP DC motor that can go from a crawl to 2800 real RPM and maintain torque throughout the range. There are two pulley positions for the belt - high speed/lower torque, low speed/higher torque. I mostly run in the high speed range and never had the lathe bog or slip a belt, even when taking heavy cuts. With the right tool, this lathe will take a 0.050" deep cut in mild steel for an overall diameter reduction of 0.100", something that even a 9 or 10" lathe will struggle to do. Make no mistake. The Sherline lathe is small but it is a real lathe and can do real work.
  • This lathe is precise, meaning it is capable of doing precision work. The Sherline leadscrews are very precise. If I dial in 0.005" of cut, that is what I get. If I dial in 0.0001", that is what I get. You will find that how big a cut a lathe can take is not nearly as important as how accurately it can take small cuts to come in on size. I usually work to personal tolerances of +/- 0.0005" or less because on this lathe, I can.
  • This lathe will cut pretty much whatever a hobby guy runs across - stainless, mild steel, titanium, brass, plastics, aluminum, wood, etc. If a regular lathe can cut it, a Sherline lathe can, too.
  • My 4400 lathe is fully manual but I have an outboard DC variable speed motor on the leadscrew for power feed. With it and the motor speed control, I can alter spindle speed and feeds on the fly to give me incredible control of the cut in real time. In manual mode without power feed, I do admit it is a bit tedious hand cranking to move the carriage around but to be honest, this never really registers and I just work without thinking about it. I raise this to advise you that you will have to turn wheels to do things on this lathe. It is not a problem.
  • Sherline has the largest inventory of accessories of any machine tool manufacturer. If you need something to do something, Sherline will have it OR you can usually make it yourself if you also have a Sherline mill. The quality of Sherline accessories, especially their chucks, is really hard to beat. Nobody, and that includes Taig, even comes close in this size of machine.
But all is not roses. Here are some negatives.
  • The lathe is small and there will be times when you are pushing the size envelope with this machine. If you can fit it on the lathe, the lathe will cut it. The problem is that some work just will not fit and then you're sort of screwed. It is why I now own a larger lathe but it took over 20 years before I was forced to buy it.
  • The Sherline tailstock is not adjustable and this well and truly sucks. There are work arounds, like their adjustable live centers, but this is the single biggest negative to this lathe. It isn't truly that horrible. Mine is something like 0.001" or so off, I think, but on a long work piece this is a pain to deal with. You would think they would have made it laterally adjustable after all this time but they haven't. I got around this issue by making a better live center.
  • You have to use a threading attachment to cut threads. The motor has to come off and you have to attach a gear cluster to the end of the lathe to use it, which is a pain at times. On the other hand, this arrangement allows you to cut more threads than any other lathe I have seen and it is capable of cutting class 3 internal and external threads all day. Feed is manual so no worries about crashing or damaging anything and control is extremely fine so while it can be a pain to set up, it works very well.
  • They have engineered plastic gibs. This is not a negative really. I raise it because others will. The gibs on Sherline machines will probably outlast the machine itself, rarely needs adjusting and allow the machine to take cuts it really shouldn't be able to take. They are a superb piece of engineering that allows a machine that is largely made from aluminum to function without much wear at all over decades of use. My lathe is over 35 years old and has almost zero wear on the ways or anywhere else. The same thing applies to my mill. The naysayers don't know what they're talking about.
I hope this helps. Almost everything I know about machining was learned on Sherline machines. They are real machine tools and can do real work. If they fit your work envelope then they are worthy of your consideration. If you have questions, I can probably answer them or point you in the right direction.
Wow Mikey, that's an incredible endorsement. Seems to me I saw a video where someone attached his Sherline to the cross-slide of a much larger lathe to do drilling/milling of a part on that lathe... pretty versatile machine.

You have seen my posts. After reading your post, I can't help but wonder if the Sherline might not be a good first purchase for me, with a plan to buy a larger lathe at a later date. Any thoughts on this?
 
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Wow Mikey, that's an incredible endorsement. Seems to me I saw a video where someone attached his Sherline to the cross-slide of a much larger lathe to do drilling/milling of a part on that lathe... pretty versatile machine.

You have seen my posts. After reading your post, I can't help but wonder if the Sherline might not be a good first purchase for me, with a plan to buy a larger lathe at a later date. Any thoughts on this?

I already bought one per Mike's recommendation :). I followed a "decision tree" in terms of lathe selection. Do I want to have something that takes a forklift to move (even for a great price)? At this time, being strictly a hobbyist - no, I don't. Also, I actually want to put it inside the house (better both for the machine and for me - summers here are awful, humidity is usually high). Furthermore, say I ran into that elusive 70-year old South Bend for $300 (though I likely won't). How would I assess its condition (considering my current state of ignorance :))? And how much $$ would it take to bring it to a functional state of a high-precision machine, given all the (unavoidable) wear on bearings, etc.? Then there were the inexpensive Chinese mini lathes with pretty nice features, but seems like lots of folks are having quality issues with those... Plastic gears seem a bit scary... And building them into a decent machine would likely require some investment. Anyhow, these were the basic parts of my decision-making process, but YMMV, of course.
 
Wow Mikey, that's an incredible endorsement. Seems to me I saw a video where someone attached his Sherline to the cross-slide of a much larger lathe to do drilling/milling of a part on that lathe... pretty versatile machine.

You have seen my posts. After reading your post, I can't help but wonder if the Sherline might not be a good first purchase for me, with a plan to buy a larger lathe at a later date. Any thoughts on this?

Morning, Doc. Yes, I've seen your posts and I know you're struggling with this decision. I know it's a tough one.

If I remember correctly, you live on a farm and are building a shop, right? You're heading toward retirement in the near future and can take a well deserved break - do it; I highly recommend retirement!

If you were a city feller living in an apartment or an old guy dabbling in metalworking on a limited budget then I think a Sherline is a really good place to start. However, your environment suggests to me that a larger lathe would be more useful and appropriate to your needs. If I lived on a farm and anticipated the need to keep things running, the smallest lathe I would even consider would be a 13 or 14" lathe. That would be even more so if you were a gun guy and anticipate doing some gun work. A Sherline would be a good lathe to have for small precision work but not as a primary lathe.

I own an Emco Super 11 CD. Compared to the lathes many of our members own, it is a small lathe but it suits my needs perfectly. It is extremely accurate, rigid and powerful for what it is but it still gets used maybe 40% of the time. My Sherline does most of the lifting in my shop because most of my work is small and requires precision. My Emco is precise enough but for me the smaller lathe is easier to work with. For you, I would imagine that most of your work would be on a larger lathe and the Sherline would be used for the rare small part you would need.

I am not with the "buy the biggest lathe you can fit or afford" crowd but I do believe that the lathe must be able to do what you need it to do. As you mature in this hobby your capabilities will grow exponentially and what you thought was adequate will quickly turn into being too small and limiting, especially given where you live (a farm).

I would be more than happy to discuss this further with you in a PM if you like.
 
Thanks! I will send you a PM when it gets a little closer. They finish clearing this week... now I get to start getting rid of stumps. Then I get to grade the site for the shop. Hopefully by October we can get started on construction.
 
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