Buying a Bridgeport

Tilt and nod are different things- nod is like when you nod your head and tilt would be like leaning your head to the left or right.
Then there's swivel which is like turning your head left or right keeping your eyes parallel with the horizon
Also, I believe the shortest Bridgie table is 32", I have seen a few on Ebay that short.
The longer tables can actually be bent if you can believe that, but not from having heavy things put on them. It happens from overtightening the t-slot bolts holding the vise over a period of time- it apparently warps the table. I have heard it can be corrected by peening the underside of the table, not an easy job though.
The variable speed heads are fine if they are in good shape when you buy it- if you find one, spend some time running it a different speeds and listen for bad noises and vibration.
Bridgeport isn't the only game in town, it's just the best known. Other good mills are Cincinnati, Index, Van Norman, and Gorton
 
Sorry I had J on the brain after thinking of the Jacobs collets. The collets for the J head and the J2J head machines are indeed R-8. The heads on these machines can be swiveled on the turret left to right. It can be "nodded"

Here's a link to a video showing a Bridgeport series I head being rotated in the Y direction. I referred to it as "nodding"


Here's a short video showing the head being "rotated in the X direction. I referred to it as "tilt in my first post.


Here's a short video on rotating the head on the turret. This isn't a Bridgeport, but it works the same. This video shows only loosening 2 bolts. Bridgeports have 2 more on the opposite side of the ram.


Finally here's a link to the manual for a Bridgeport Series I machine.

 
markba633csi said:
Tilt and nod are different things- nod is like when you nod your head and tilt would be like leaning your head to the left or right.
Then there's swivel which is like turning your head left or right keeping your eyes parallel with the horizon
Also, I believe the shortest Bridgie table is 32", I have seen a few on Ebay that short.
The longer tables can actually be bent if you can believe that, but not from having heavy things put on them. It happens from overtightening the t-slot bolts holding the vise over a period of time- it apparently warps the table. I have heard it can be corrected by peening the underside of the table, not an easy job though.
The variable speed heads are fine if they are in good shape when you buy it- if you find one, spend some time running it a different speeds and listen for bad noises and vibration.
Bridgeport isn't the only game in town, it's just the best known. Other good mills are Cincinnati, Index, Van Norman, and Gorton
Click to expand...
Yeah, I’ve got a Rong Fu, aClausing 8520 and an index mill, but my friend is dead set on a Bridgeport..... his money, his way! But..... that’s good...... I get to play with a new machine. Thanks,I will get on that mill motor tomorrow.....I hope! Thanks guys!




Bones
 
I'm not familiar with the Rong Fu and the Clausing, but I do know Index machines are good machines. The only downsides to most of the similar built or clone Bridgeports is the availabiliry of parts. Index is still in business under the Wells Index name, however there aren't many dealers willing to supply parts for older machines. There simply isn't enough volume for them to make it a priority. With low volume parts sales you can imagine what that does to the cost of individual parts.
The other downside is that the clones/similar machines are just enough different from Bridgeports (to avoid infringing on patents) that some parts interchange, and others don't. In many cases the only suppliers of clone parts are their manufacturers. Because the Bridgeport name is widely recognized many people think their used machines must be more valuable. The initial asking prices are often times unreasonable.

If you're patient I'm sure you can find a quality machine for a reasonable price. There are currently several offerings in the Wisconsin area ranging from $2,800.00 to $8,700.00. The only visible differences between the 2 is that the more expensive one has a Bijur oiler, DRO, and power feed on the X axis. All of those accessories can be purchased new for less than $1,500.00. This machine is obviously not being sold by the original owner in that the text in the add states "This machine appears to be in good condition and seems to have been taken care of."
 
Don't rule out a nice Lagun FTV1 2 or even a 3 if you come across one or even an Enco mill . The variable speed heads are handy but the Encos have 2 speed motors which can get you in the ballpark usually . I have BPs , Laguns , Encos and Alliances in at work and all are good machines , but they are maintained nicely . The name Bridgeport is synonomous with a knee type mill , but there are plenty others out there .
 
We are just starting this journey and my friend, who will be purchasing this machine, says “ Bridgeport” ! For what he is wanting to do any one of my three machines would do the job! But none of my machines are running now! I have the worst luck with mills. The very first I actually traded for, was an Index, older machine, 3 phase. I have not completed my three phase conversion set up... so no run! Then I buy a Clausing 8520 mill and a Clausing 12 inch lathe and a truck load of tooling, for $500. The owner decides to pull the mill out of the garage with a tractor and tips it over, bending the lead screw and handle, dial etc. So, no run! Then while I was in Pennsylvania I run across and ad for a Rong Fu mill for $400, I buy it for $200, go to pick it up... no belts, screws missing, motor wires not hooked up, no tooling. I buy it anyway. Haul it to Oklahoma, in my mini-van. Put it in my shop at my house, still no run! So..... now my friend wants a Bridgeport..... but he will only buy a nice running machine! I may get to make some chips ..soon! I hope! Lol


Now, I’ve got my eye on a Millrite MVN.... when the price gets right! I’ll never learn!


Bones
 
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Well I'm month late,but I can understand your boss wanting a BP.For me his reason is just about all parts are still available which is a plus.So I would think that main concern would be the ways.Which where the saddle sets would be a focal point,I would move it just about all the way end towards the column then maybe see if you can feel the ways where most of the wear will be.The the next area would be where the table sets on saddle, maybe focus on that also.I think that if it has a one shot oiler see if it looks like its been used and if all the ways have film of oil on it then maybe mill was taken care of. But buying used its always a roll of the dice,and finding a used BP that only a hobbyist has ever use would be like winning Lotto.
 
projectnut said:
One last thing. Be aware of new paint, and a claim that the machine has been "rebuilt". Many times a rebuild consists of a wash job and paint. If the machine was truly rebuilt ask to see the receipts for the parts. The one time I did buy a "rebuilt" machine (in this case a lathe) the owner was happy to show me the parts list, receipts, and repairs needed.
Click to expand...

Killer advice. My only addition to this is the addition of fresh flaking to show that there is no way wear on the knee.

Jon
H&W Machine Repair
 
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