Busch precision 24" camel back cast iron straight edge

its not about just cutting down a piece of cast iron, its removing the supports on the ends. Its like removing the foundation from a bridge, if the foundation is not there, the center will flex and collapse. The same will happen to your camel back. When you cut the ends off, the center can now flex because they are not there to support the center section. Its a whole package. Cutting the ends met your needs but do not be surprised if it moves on you. Tim

loply said:
Regarding cutting a straight edge down from 36" to 24".

I recently did exactly this. I would start by pointing out that I had no choice; I searched for months to find a straight edge with a knife edge in the UK, and never found a single 24" one for sale either new or used. Emailed a few foreign companies but no helpful responses. Even contacted a local foundry but they weren't interested in helping.

In the end I found a used 36" one and reluctantly bought it knowing it was too big. As it turns out, it was warped a little bit out of shape anyway, despite being made in England and from the 1970s, so I didn't feel too guilty about cutting the ends off it.

It looks good still, and my analysis is that the overall new shape/structure is still suitable. Whether it will move in future I can't say, but, now that it is 24" and fits on my surface plate, if it does move I'll just scrape it again!

Anyway, my only advice to you if you want to do this is that you'll need a good saw... I used an automatic bandsaw. I wouldn't try it with a hacksaw or a grinder unless you've got lots of patience.

But I would try to find a 24" one first, I wouldn't have gone to the effort of doing this if I had any other choice.

Cheers,
Rich
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Hi All
Well I finely got a reply from Craig Donges in OH. I am getting the 36" camel back from him, 200.00 delivered to Colorado. Sending out payment today. He can no longer machine the casting as his guy has passed on, god rest his sole. I will have to machine it myself I guess. That should be fun on that old Bridgeport of mine.:)) I will decide when I see it as to weather to shorten it or leave it 36" I only have a 24"x24" surface plate so we will see. I just don't have any more room for a bigger surface plate.
Thanks for all the reply's I will try to post pix when I get it. If anyone wants to see what they look like.
CH
 
Does anyone have an email for Craig Donges?

I am am just starting with regards to scarping. I have the rebuilding machines book and the mechanical accuracy book, both are interesting, but can only be read for a bit at a time.

from those books and this forum I feel I need the following:

granite surface plate 12 by 18 or 18 by 24 will suit my needs (reference tools and small plates to help with hand engraving efforts.

a precision straight edge that is smaller than the surface plate. Where can I get castings to keep cost down, and how do I turn the casting into the usable tool??

a hand scraper with carbide blade

a sharpening system for the scraper blades

a .0001 dial indicator with magnetic mount and as thick rods as possible.

spotting media - still not sure what the best option is there, red from the Biax site??

and finally patience and practice.

comments and advice would be greatly appreciated.


a scarping class in Northern Virginia would be great Mr. King!!


thanks all
 
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